Kicking Horse, Golden, BC: Deep Powder, Big Terrain, and Canada’s Highest Restaurant

Powder Fever and Mountain Dreams

“Ready to kick up more powder?” my husband calls out, his grin visible even behind his ski mask. I laugh, tightening my bindings.

After three unforgettable days at Revelstoke Mountain Resort in the Kootenay Rockies of British Columbia, Canada, I’ve caught a serious case of ski fever — and our next stop, Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, promises to be the cure.

But the Kootenays don’t do anything halfway.

The drive alone — a twisting, white-knuckled journey through Rogers Pass — feels like an adventure.

As we wind down toward the city of Golden, BC, the snow gets deeper, the peaks sharper, and the excitement rises with the elevation.

Arrival In Golden

When we finally roll into the whimsical alpine village, it’s like entering a snow globe come to life.

Icicles shimmer from timbered eaves, log cabins wear marshmallow caps, and the air is tinged with the scent of wood smoke and anticipation.

A Warm Welcome in a Winter Wonderland

We check into the Palliser Lodge, a cozy ski-in/ski-out retreat just steps from the gondola.

It’s the perfect base — a blend of rustic charm and modern comfort.

From our balcony, we can see skiers carving their first tracks through pristine powder.

Inside, the gas fireplace beckons, and for a brief moment, I consider trading ski boots for slippers.

But morning arrives with a bluebird sky and an energy that’s impossible to ignore.

Powder Records And Vibes

The loudspeaker crackles to life: “We’ve broken a thirty-year record — eighty centimeters in three days!”

The crowd erupts in cheers. Clearly, we’ve arrived at the right time.

At the base of the Golden Eagle Express Gondola, I meet Don Steinhauer, one of the resort’s Snow Hosts. He greets us with a grin that suggests he’s been skiing these slopes for decades.

“Conditions like this bring out the die-hards,” he says, nodding toward the eager crowd.

“But don’t worry — we’ve got terrain for everyone. You’ll see.”

Exploring Kicking Horse Terrain

Instead of joining the gondola queue, Don leads us toward the quieter side of the mountain.

We board the Catamount quad, gliding past snow-draped pines to mid-station, then hop onto the Pioneer Chair.

“This lift serviced the original Whitetooth Ski Area,” Don explains. “Locals love it because it’s mellow, scenic, and crowd-free.”

He waves to a few familiar faces below — silver-haired veterans carving smooth, confident turns.

“Some of these folks are in their seventies,” he says proudly. My own boomer-aged jitters begin to melt away.

We follow Don’s fluid lead through a maze of runs: Grizzly Paw, Wiley Coyote, and the resort’s namesake, Kicking Horse.

Each descent feels like an invitation into the wild heart of the Rockies — steep glades, gentle cruisers, and powder so soft it sighs beneath the skis.

The mountain is blissfully uncrowded. Perhaps that’s why Boo, the resort’s most famous resident, likes it here, too.

The orphaned grizzly has his own 33-acre refuge on the slope — though he’s hibernating during winter, he’ll emerge when mountain bikers replace skiers on the trails.

Dining At Eagle’s Eye

After several glorious laps, my legs start to feel the burn. “Time for a break?” Don asks, reading my mind. “Let’s head to the top.”

We glide back to the gondola, where — miraculously — there’s no line.

Twelve minutes later, we step out at Eagle’s Eye Restaurant, perched 7,700 feet above sea level atop the Dogtooth Range.

This is Canada’s highest restaurant, and the view alone is worth the ride.

From our window table, we can see serrated ridges stretching to the horizon, their snowy crowns glowing in the midday sun.

The menu is as elevated as the setting — wild BC salmon, chicken ciabatta, and a goat cheese salad that tastes as fresh as the mountain air.

Between bites, I watch skiers launch themselves down couloirs with names like Pearly Gates and Terminator.

“You’ll find every kind of terrain up here,” Don says. “Chutes, bowls, and glades — more than eighty-five runs in all.”

I take another sip of coffee, savoring the warmth and the view. For a moment, I understand why locals call this the “Golden Mile of Mountain Life.”

Scenic Descent On It’s A Ten

As the sun dips behind the peaks, we click back into our skis and begin our final descent — a 10-kilometer cruiser aptly named It’s A Ten.

The run ribbons down the mountainside like a flowing scarf, tracing the contours of the Kootenays in gentle, winding curves.

It’s the perfect ending: unhurried, scenic, and utterly peaceful.

My turns grow lazy as I soak in the last golden light spilling across the valley.

Around each bend, the view changes — frozen waterfalls, glimmering glades, snow ghosts standing sentinel in the distance.

By the time we reach the base, my thighs are burning, my cheeks ache from grinning, and I’m already planning our return.

Après-Ski Bliss in Golden

Back in the village, we wander through Golden’s après-ski scene — a cozy blend of rustic pubs and mountain eateries.

Locals and visitors swap stories over craft beer at the Whitetooth Brewing Company, while others warm up beside outdoor firepits.

Golden itself is an authentic mountain town — small, friendly, and framed by three mountain ranges.

Beyond skiing, it’s a year-round playground for outdoor enthusiasts: snowshoeing, ice climbing, and heli-skiing in winter; hiking, rafting, and biking when the snow melts.

But for now, we’re content to relax, feet up and hearts full. The Kootenays have worked their magic — wild, untamed, and utterly addictive.

If You Go

Trip Planning Essentials

Getting There: Golden, BC, is about a three-hour drive west of Calgary via the Trans-Canada Highway.

The nearest major airport is Calgary International (YYC).

Be prepared for winter driving conditions through Rogers Pass.

Where to Stay: The Palliser Lodge offers ski-in/ski-out access, fireplaces, and mountain views.

Other nearby options include the Glacier Mountaineer Lodge and the Basecamp Lodge Golden.

Lift Tickets: Kicking Horse Mountain Resort offers full- and half-day lift passes, with discounts for multi-day and Ikon Pass holders.

Check kickinghorseresort.com for updated rates and snow reports.

Best Time to Visit: Mid-January through March offers the best snowpack and bluebird days.

Summer visitors can explore alpine hiking trails, gondola rides, and Boo the grizzly’s refuge.

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Author Bio: Since 1996, while freelancing, Jane Cassie has had thousands of articles published.  Her stories have appeared in CNN Magazine, Northwest Travel, New York Daily News, Chicken Soup For The Soul, Dreamscapes, Air Canada In-flight, Cottage Life, Epicure, and Travel, just to name a few. She has been a regular contributor to Spa Life, INNspire, North American Inns Magazine, Cottage, and is a regular contributor to Inspire Magazines.

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