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Conquering Fear and Finding Magic in Yosemite’s Granite Cathedral

Discover the awe-inspiring landscapes and majestic vistas of Yosemite National Park, a natural sanctuary teeming with grandeur and serenity.

Yosemite Valley awakens at sunrise, with El Capitan's granite face glowing pink while Bridalveil Fall catches the morning light. Photo by Ericliu08 from Getty Images Pro via Canva
Yosemite Valley awakens at sunrise, with El Capitan's granite face glowing pink while Bridalveil Fall catches the morning light. Photo by Ericliu08 from Getty Images Pro via Canva

Heights are not my thing, yet once again, I found myself pushing the acrophobia envelope. This time, it was on a hike to ascend to the top of a waterfall. Not just any waterfall, but Yosemite National Park’s famed Vernal Fall.

Hike the Mist Trail to Vernal Fall

View of steep trail on Vernal Fall
Vernal Fall trail. Photo by Debbie Stone

To reach my goal, I took the Mist Trail, which meant I had to go up a steep granite stairway of over 600 slippery, narrow steps. I hugged the side of the trail furthest from the edge and just focused on putting one foot in front of another.

A few hikers who mimicked mountain goats passed me, and I was filled with envy. They made it look so easy.

Hikers going up stairs
Vernal Fall is one of Yosemite’s top hikes. Photo by Debbie Stone

But I soon forgot them, as I became distracted by the stunning views of the falls along the way. They made me almost, but not quite, forget about the height factor. I kept telling myself the vistas would be even more rewarding when I reached the top.

Up the Ante and Trek to Nevada Fall

Waterfall
Vernal Fall view. Photo by Debbie Stone

Vernal Fall did not disappoint, and it felt great to accomplish this feat. With renewed confidence, I decided to hike further to Nevada Fall, knowing it was another 1.3 miles of rocky switchbacks.

Admittedly, it was a challenging climb, but once again, the effort was definitely worthwhile. The scenery was majestic, and I felt on top of the world.

Bridge at the top of Nevada Trail
Reaching the top of Nevada Trail is an accomplishment. Photo by Debbie Stone

This experience served to reiterate my need to continue to try and conquer any fears I have that would prevent me from experiencing such splendor. It reminded me that it’s okay to occasionally put myself in uncomfortable situations because the payoff rarely disappoints.

Leave the Crowds Behind

People sitting under umbrellas, enjoying a meal
Enjoy the views while sitting under umbrellas. Photo by Debbie Stone

For reference, the Mist Trail is one of the most popular trails in Yosemite. Unless you get an early start, you’ll find yourself joining the masses trying to ascend or descend those infamous stairs to Vernal Fall.

Dealing with such crowds on this type of terrain can be stressful, which is why I made it a point to hit this trailhead no later than seven thirty in the morning. It gave me the opportunity to experience nature’s bounty in relative solitude.

Best Yosemite National Park Tours & Excursions

John Muir and Yosemite

Painting of John Muir
John Muir, an influential naturalist, helped establish Yosemite National Park. Photo by Debbie Stone

What goes up, however, must eventually go down. Not wanting to retrace my steps, I opted to return via the John Muir Trail and enjoy different, yet no less scenic views. This trail is longer, but not as steep, and typically gets fewer hikers than the Mist Trail.

Though the latter, with its mist from the waterfall, can be blissfully refreshing during summer months.

I was curious about the John Muir Trail, or the JMT as it’s often called, and did a bit of research during my visit to Yosemite. Muir, who’s known as the father of the conservation movement, served as the first president of the Sierra Club.

It’s said there are more places in California named in his honor than any other person.

The trail was created to honor the memory of Muir, and it took nearly fifty years to complete. It runs for 211 miles from Yosemite to Mt. Whitney and is regarded as a tough hike that typically takes average hikers about three weeks to complete. And no, it’s not on my bucket list.

Yosemite Boasts Longevity and a Sublime Landscape

Scenic vista of rocks and mountains viewed from Taft Point
The view from Taft Point is sublime. Photo by Debbie Stone

Established in 1890, Yosemite is the country’s third oldest national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was here, back in 1903, that the idea of national parks was born.

John Muir guided President Teddy Roosevelt, a noted conservationist, through the Yosemite wilderness, and it became the camping trip that changed the nation. There’s a plaque in the park to acknowledge this historic meeting of the minds.

Yosemite’s nearly 800,000 glacially sculpted acres are a nature lover’s nirvana and a photographer’s dream. The park is world-renowned for its dramatic waterfalls, formidable granite domes and craggy peaks, lush meadows, meandering rivers, ginormous trees, and commanding views.

When visiting Yosemite for the first time, my recommendation is to choose one area to explore at a time; otherwise, it’s too overwhelming. This is one epic destination that deserves multiple visits, so don’t try to do everything on your initial foray.

Stay in Yosemite Valley

Hiker on rocks at Sentinel Dome
Hiker on Sentinel Dome. Photo by Debbie Stone

Most first-timers spend the majority of their stay in Yosemite Valley, as it’s home to the majority of the legendary landmarks in the park.

This is also Yosemite’s human hub, where you’ll find lodging, a grocery store, a post office, a medical clinic, the main visitor center, a museum, Ansel Adams Gallery, and a gift shop or two.

There are many interesting events that happen in this central sector, from ranger talks and films to art and photo workshops. Numerous guided hikes and bike tours depart from the area, too.

Beware of the congestion, though, especially at peak times, and know that parking is at a premium. I opted to occasionally ride the free shuttle buses, which pick up and drop off at various key sites and trailheads throughout the park.

It was easy, and along the way, I chatted with other hikers who were happy to share their tips.

Check Out Bridalveil Fall

Waterfall with greenery in front
Bridalveil Fall. Photo by Debbie Stone

On the main road leading into the valley are various pullouts for great views and side hikes. One of the easiest and shortest trails leads to Bridalveil Fall.

Waterfalls are a magnet for me, and this one required little effort to reach. I gazed at this picture-pretty sight, watching the water as it tumbled down a granite face beneath Cathedral Rocks.

El Capitan Is Impressive!

Large rock formation at Yosemite National Park
El Capitan is ginormous! Photo by Debbie Stone

At another pullout, I came face-to-face with El Capitan. As the largest exposed granite monolith in the world, El Cap is a monster and exceeded my expectations. Its walls measure nearly 3,600 feet high, more than twice the height of the Empire State Building. For serious rock climbers, it’s the Holy Grail.

Glacier Point Is a Must-See

Scenic view of mountains from Glacier Point
Glacier Point view. Photo by Debbie Stone

Thirty miles from Yosemite Valley is Glacier Point – also a must-see feature on my list. This overlook boasted an awe-inspiring, jaw-dropping view that was exhilarating. In front of me was the legendary Half Dome and Yosemite’s high country, while 3,200 feet below was Yosemite Valley.

Some greet the morning with a sunrise trip to the Point; others end their day by taking in the glorious colors at sunset. When I was there, I witnessed a wedding take place and thought what a wonderful spot to exchange vows.

Half Dome was most impressive to me. This 8,800-foot, crescent-shaped granite formation is one of the most recognizable formations in Yosemite. It also has a massive appeal to experienced hikers. Because of its popularity, a lottery-distributed permit is required to make the climb to the top.

I’m told this hike is not for the faint-hearted. It involves traversing seven to eight miles and gaining 4,800 feet in elevation. It ends in a daunting ascent to the summit with the use of cables. Serious props to those who complete this arduous journey!

Bear Sighting!

Bear
I spy a bear! Photo by Debbie Stone

Before reaching Glacier Point, there are Sentinel Dome and Taft Point, two of my other favorite highlights of the area. Each is reached via a trail that ends with a grand vista, and in my case, the additional bonus of a bear sighting!

The creature and I kept our distance, and we went about our business without confrontation. Having lived in Alaska, I’m familiar with bears and know what to do when I see one.

Taft Point is known for the large fissures in its mile-high, distinctive granite rock. The place is named after President William Taft, who, according to accounts, came across the point when he visited Yosemite in 1909. He, too, was hosted by none other than John Muir.

These Are Some Ginormous Trees!

Tall rock set against other rocks
Half Dome in all its glory. Photo by Debbie Stone

South of the valley is Wawona and Mariposa Grove, home to the Giant Sequoias and the Pioneer Yosemite History Center. There are about 500 mature trees in the grove.

As the largest known living things on earth, these regal sentinels dwarf everything in their midst. Standing next to one gave me a “Honey, I shrunk the kids” sensation.

Giant Sequoias are symbols of longevity and strength, boasting a life span of over two thousand years. Smaller stretches of these majestic trees can also be found at Tuolumne Grove, reached via Tioga Road, a 39-mile scenic drive past forests, meadows, lakes, and more towering granite cliffs.

Learn About Yosemite’s Past

The Pioneer Yosemite History Center was a walk back in time with historic buildings from different eras of Yosemite’s past. I watched blacksmiths at work and thought about taking a horse-drawn stage ride, but ran out of time.

I’ll be Back for High Sierra Country

Trail sign
Trailhead sign. Photo by Debbie Stone

During this trip, I didn’t get to Tuolumne Meadows, which is High Sierra country and the jumping-off place for more hikes, such as Cathedral Lakes, Elizabeth Lake, and Lembert Dome. Nor did I make it to Hetch Hetchy, the site of the reservoir that is the source of drinking water and hydroelectric power for San Francisco. A ranger told me this area is full of wilderness trails, and due to its low elevation, it’s an ideal place to hike in autumn and winter. Next time!

Yosemite is a soul-stirring park that offers new discoveries with each exploration. It’s hard to describe the profound effect that this place had on me. Pictures, however, are worth a thousand words.

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Debbie Stone

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