The fire engine red 2000 Harley-Davidson Super Glide Sport motorcycle is not particularly distinctive. It’s not like the dainty wristwatch of its Asian counterparts but a thumping heavyweight unit that reminds one more of a formidable grandfather clock.
It’s the wall-sized photograph which forms a backdrop to the nondescript bike that mesmerizes.
It depicts New York City firefighter Tim Duffy in full gear riding this very motorcycle through the eerie landscape of the aftermath of the terrorist attacks on September 11, 2001. Duffy was off duty on that fateful day. Responding to the images on his TV, he put on his turnout gear and rode into the rubble of downtown Manhattan.
That’s where photojournalist Allan Tannenbaum captured his image. Duffy spent nearly three months working at Ground Zero.
The Harley-Davidson Museum
His motorcycle is now on display at the Harley-Davidson Museum in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, nearly 900 miles from Ground Zero. For the next six months it will honor Mr. Duffy and 9/11.
We had descended on this American Great Lakes metropolis, located on the shores of Lake Michigan, for a quick weekend getaway. Our planned escape revolved around a baseball game in Wisconsin’s largest city. However, we soon discovered a bevy of diversions that kept us enthralled.
A scenic lakefront made for strolls, local Germanic flavors, and the big city’s unique small-town charm made for a wonderful Midwest getaway.
We started with the Harley-Davidson Museum. Even if you’ve never ridden a motorcycle, this museum intrigues. The story of this hometown company founded in a shed by William Harley and the four Davidson brothers is well presented.
As we made our way through each exhibit, I couldn’t help but admire the chrome, glittery machines as artistry on wheels.
Historic Third Ward
Less than 2 miles away, we found Milwaukee’s Historic Third Ward. Once a bustling grocery warehouse district, the historic neighborhood has experienced a renaissance with the brick warehouses of this turn-of-the-century neighborhood having been reclaimed.
Today, the flourishing district is home to hundreds of businesses, restaurants, art galleries, specialty shops, and theaters.
Milwaukee Public Market
The anchor of the Third Ward is the Milwaukee Public Market where the focus is on food. The cavernous hall houses rows and rows of merchants selling everything from fresh cheese curds to the famed lobster roll from St. Paul Fish Company.
On a Sunday afternoon, amid the cacophony of an eager crowd of locals and tourists, the rich, blended smells of baked goods, raw spices, fresh cheeses and the intriguing aromas of simmering ethnic dishes enveloped us in a warm embrace.
It’s ripe for exploration and difficult to walk away without indulging in several offerings. An upstairs dining area provided an escape while we sampled our finds.
Strolling the cobblestone streets which are adorned with public art, past converted warehouses decorated with striking murals, confirmed why it’s one of Milwaukee’s most vibrant districts.
Brew City
Somebody once said that what made Milwaukee famous was beer. This city on the lake has been referred to as the Beer Capital of the World.
On my first youthful trip, several decades past, to Milwaukee with friends, we referred to it as Brew City. We had come for the famed brewery tours.
At one time the city housed some of the largest breweries nationwide: Miller, Pabst, Schlitz and several others.
Today, only Miller remains. And they still offer tours.
Miller Brewery Tour
Miller Valley, the historic neighborhood dominated by the Miller Brewery, is roughly a 10-minute drive from downtown.
We joined a guided walking tour whose leader was very chatty and knowledgeable. The tour begins with a short film detailing the story of Frederick Miller who emigrated from Germany and purchased the Plank Road Brewery in 1855.
The adventure covers four blocks which stretched our legs as we climbed several staircases and walked through various departments around the Miller Complex including the historic Plank Road caves where Frederick Miller would store his beer to keep it cool.
A stop at The Beer Garden was our reward where we were able to sample three different beers from the Miller family.
A stop at the Girl in the Moon Brewery Shop, a nod to the iconic Miller mascot, gave us a chance to shop an array of brewery merchandise.
A German Heritage
Milwaukee is home to one of the nation’s largest German American populations. Signs of German contributions, dating to the late 1850s, are everywhere, including Usinger’s Sausage, the vast Victorian Turner Hall, and the massive three-story gabled brick Pabst Mansion.
For a true taste of Milwaukee’s German heritage, we walked to Mader’s, the city’s oldest (founded in 1902) German restaurant. The first thing we noticed was its distinctive architecture. A half-timbered façade flanked with a brick turret gave a decided old-world feel.
Inside, surrounded by dark paneled walls lined with a suit of armor, beer steins and cuckoo clocks, a birthday celebration was reaching its crescendo as we joined several patrons in serenading the birthday boy. As the last chords died away, the young man, maybe 8-or-9, stood on his chair and gave a rousing rendition of God Bless America!
Applause and cries of “Prost” were followed with uplifted ½ liter steins of Germany’s finest.
Reuben Rolls prefaced the German Sampler, a dinner of three classics, including Wiener schnitzel. A hot apple dumpling completed the meal.
The Riverwalk
Following dinner, we enjoyed a long stroll along Milwaukee’s Riverwalk.
The scenic trail winds along the Milwaukee River for over 20 blocks passing shops, nightlife, restaurants, theaters and more.
The walk runs through the heart of the city’s downtown past the grand architecture that defines the city. It is an easy and relaxing way to enjoy the river and view the many historic buildings including the massive white glazed terra-cotta clad former Gimbels flagship store and the 350-foot-tall City Hall.
The Riverwalk is home to an outdoor art gallery that includes both permanent and temporary sculptures. One of the more recognizable pieces is a life-size statue of Arthur Fonzarelli, aka “Fonzie,” king of cool from the American hit TV show “Happy Days.”
You cannot walk by without taking a photo of his trademark double thumbs-up.
A Night in the Historic Loyalty Building
Our walk led us to our room for the night located in the Loyalty Building; a grand Romanesque building built in 1886 as the headquarters for Northwestern Mutual Life Insurance Company.
Today it is home to the Hilton Garden Inn, a decidedly mundane hostelry housed in a breathtaking piece of architecture.
Entering through a chain of arches supported by polished granite columns, we were greeted with a stately stairway at the base of a beautiful, soaring atrium beneath a broad skylight.
Our room had the high ceilings one would expect from 19th-century design and the soaring windows to match; the building breathed history.
A Taste of Europe
The following morning, we breakfasted at the Cafe Benelux. Located in the Third Ward, the café delivers a little taste of Europe.
We were lucky enough to be seated on the rooftop patio where we dined on cinnamon streusel French toast topped with orange honey butter and complemented by an order of plump breakfast sausage.
Lakeshore State Park
Following breakfast, we walked to Lakeshore State Park.
In the heart of downtown Milwaukee, Lakeshore State Park lies along the shores of Lake Michigan and is adjacent to the Henry W. Maier Festival Grounds.
This urban oasis offered great views of the city and Lake Michigan as we shared the easy walking pathways with others enjoying the morning’s sunshine.
America’s Pastime
Prior to leaving our room that morning, we had donned our uniform for the day; Chicago Cubs jerseys. We were in town for a game between the Cubs and the home-team Milwaukee Brewers.
As we returned from the park, a local called to us from across the street.
“Are you visiting Milwaukee? Are you here for the game?”
With a little trepidation, we answered in the affirmative.
“Well,” she replied with a smile, “If you hurry to the Pfister, you can see your team board the bus.”
We thanked her and with knowing looks, hurried off.
The storied Pfister Hotel represented the pinnacle of elegance and comfort when it opened in 1893. The iconic hotel has been a fixture in downtown Milwaukee and an emblem of style and grandeur for over a century. Huge, unfinished blocks of limestone sheath the first three stories. The upper five floors are clad in Milwaukee’s famous cream brick.
And as we walked towards a small group of fans near the entrance, several team members began to exit the lobby and board the bus.
For the next hour we stood, exchanging grins with other fans, as more players exited boarding a revolving parade of buses. Most smiled, some waved and a couple of autographs were shared.
American Family Field
We made our way to American Family Field, the retractable-roofed home of the local ball team, the Milwaukee Brewers. Located southwest of Interstate 94, it’s just 10 minutes from downtown Milwaukee.
The expansive parking lots filled early with pre-game tailgaters smoking brats, playing catch and discussing the merits of their favorite ball players.
On a sunny, breezy afternoon, beneath an open roof, the National Anthem was sung and cheered before the first pitch was thrown.
A tense, entertaining game was enjoyed, but alas, the hometown team won.
An incredible food scene, lakefront walks with incredible views that seem to stretch forever, Milwaukee is a city that’s easy to enjoy and hard to forget.
Filled with a Midwest appeal and compact enough to enjoy without rushing, Milwaukee is a wonderful getaway.
It’s truly enjoyable.
For more, read The Sleeping Bear Dunes: Discovering the Splendor of Michigan’s National Lakeshore.
If You Go
Getting There
- Milwaukee Mitchell International Airport is about 10 minutes from downtown.
- For Midwest visitors, Milwaukee is a convenient 90 minute drive from Chicago. If you’re flying in and want the freedom to explore beyond downtown, compare rental car rates on Discover Cars.
Where to Stay
The Hilton Garden Inn Milwaukee Downtown fills the 1886 Loyalty Building, where a skylit atrium and rooms with soaring windows put you within walking distance of the Riverwalk, the Third Ward and the lakefront.
Things to Do
- The Harley-Davidson Museum tells the story of the hometown company that started in a backyard shed, and it’s worth a visit even if you’ve never ridden.
- The Historic Third Ward is home to the Milwaukee Public Market, galleries, shops and some of the city’s best murals.
- Miller Brewery Tours take you through Miller Valley and the historic Plank Road caves, ending with samples in the beer garden.
- To see Milwaukee’s craft side, this small-group brewery tour visits four local brewpubs, including Lakefront Brewery, with tastings and a meal along the way.
- This small-group food tour walks from the Third Ward to Old World Third Street, passing the Bronze Fonz and the Riverwalk while you sample local beer, cheese and German favorites.
Where to Eat
- Mader’s Restaurant is Milwaukee’s oldest German restaurant, serving schnitzel and half liter steins on Old World Third Street since 1902.
- Café Benelux sits across from the Milwaukee Public Market and serves a Lowlands European menu from breakfast on, with a rooftop patio that’s hard to beat on a sunny morning.
Catch a Game
The Milwaukee Brewers play at American Family Field, about 10 minutes from downtown, under a retractable roof that keeps the game on in any weather.
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