Silk, Secrets, and Sublime Cuisine: Spending Time in Lyon, France

Lyon, in southwestern France, is over 2000 years old. It was founded by the Romans in 43 BC.

I spent a week there, partly inspired by reading Dirt, by Bill Buford, who worked with some of the city’s famous chefs like Paul Bocuse.

The city, situated between the Rhône and Saône rivers, boasts a fascinating history and stunning architecture, featuring Roman ruins, medieval alleys, and Renaissance buildings.

Discovering Vieux Lyon

On our first full day, my companion and I went on an informative, free GuruWalk. Ambling through Vieux (Old) Lyon up on the hill, we went into some of the famous traboules (hidden passageways). Inhabitants initially used these to make it faster to get from their homes up high down to the Saône River for water.

Later, the traboules were used by the Canuts (silk workers) who needed water for their work and in WWII by the local resistance for secret meetings.

Les Halles de Paul Bocuse

Les Halles de Paul Bocuse is an indoor market named after the revered chef. Here you can buy top-quality food, including cheese, bread, fruits, vegetables and all kinds of meat, including sausages.

There are several restaurants, some of which feature oysters. If a meal is not on your agenda, simply walk around and enjoy the beautifully arranged bounty.

Check out the famous poulet (chicken) de Bresse, always displayed with head and feet next to the body.

Best Lyon Tours & Excursions

Local Markets

For more down-to-earth food shopping, there are local markets all over Lyon every day of the week.

We bought tomatoes, apricots and several cheeses at the riverside Market of Saint-Antoine Célestins, augmenting these with a fresh baguette and a sausage for dinner at our rented apartment. There are numerous chocolate, wine, cheese and butcher shops all over.

The Silk Legacy of Lyon

Silk has played a major role in Lyon since 1466, under King Louis XI. By the 17th century, the city had become the European silk capital.

The elegant Musée Soiries Brochier, on the same block as the stylish Intercontinental Hotel, explores the history of the Brochier family, who supplied silks for haute couture designers.

I loved the old looms with a cylinder system to make the pattern and the gorgeous gowns, but I passed up buying scarves or men’s neckties.

The Musée des Canuts

There is also the Musée des Canuts for other exhibits relating to the silk weavers and their work.

It’s less stylish than the Brochier, but quite interesting, featuring different looms, information on using gold and silk threads, and the work of Louis Pasteur, who solved the problem of silkworm pupa disease.

Information is available in French, but an English handout is also provided at the entrance.

Culinary Experiences in Lyon

Near the Canut museum, we had an excellent lunch at Restaurant Casseroles et Vielle Gamelles (Old Pots and Pans), where my chicken liver pate arrived under a crown of pea shoots and delicate, edible flowers.

We also had dinner at Léon de Lyon, a renowned restaurant serving classic French cuisine. The place has an old-world vibe with stained-glass windows, wood paneling and superb service.

I ate poulet de Bresse, which truly tastes like chicken—markedly different from US chicken with a distinct chew and more flavor. There are several menus (set courses with different prices) to choose from or order à la carte.

Lyon Old Town Food Tour with Local Specialties Tasting & Lunch

The Unique Murals of Lyon

For a different approach to silk, there is a huge wall mural, Le Mur de Canuts (Wall of Silk Workers), that is roped off for viewing.

It’s a modern look at the area that pays tribute to the city’s involvement with silk and is updated often. Lyon has many murals, but this one stands out.

The Cultural Treasures of Lyon

Originally a Benedictine abbey, the Musée des Beaux-Arts began displaying paintings in the early nineteenth century. Today’s collection, in an imposing building, includes sculpture, antiquities like Egyptian mummies and sarcophagi, medals, Far Eastern art, and much more.

Paintings by Delacroix, Manet, Monet, Degas and Renoir are mostly lesser-known works by these masters.

There is also a garden and a ‘tearoom.’ Check the website before going, as some or all of the museum may be closed due to strikes.

The Fascinating Musée Lumière

Housed in the Lumière family mansion, the Musée Lumière is devoted to brothers Auguste and Louis Lumière, considered the fathers of the cinema.

Their short films are surprisingly sharp and clear, and the house and grounds are elegant, especially the wood-carved staircase ending in a large rooster. The exhibits could benefit from a little sprucing up, but it’s worth a visit.

The Modern Musée de Confluences

In contrast to the eighteenth- and nineteenth-century buildings throughout Lyon, the futuristic-looking Musée de Confluences sits where the Rhône and Saône rivers converge.

Opened in 2014, the museum focuses on anthropology and science, featuring a large gift shop and a café on the top level. This location offers grand vistas in all directions, accessible without paid admission.

Exploring the Basilica of Notre-Dame

There are churches all over the city, including the Basilica of Notre-Dame at the very top of a tall hill reachable via funicular or a hearty climb.

Lyon is a great walking city, with a metro and a tram system that are both easy to use. If you are there for several days, consider purchasing the Lyon City Card, which provides access to numerous museums, public transportation, tours, and other attractions. The card can be purchased online or at the Lyon Tourist Information Office.

If You Go

• GuruWalk: www.guruwalk.com
• Musée Soieries Brochier, admission 8 euros
• Musée de Canuts, aka Maison des Canuts, or the House of the Canuts, admission 3 euros.
• Wall mural: 36 Boulevard des Canuts, free
• Beaux Arts Museum: 20 Place des Terreaux, www.mba-lyon.fr/fr, 8 euros admission subject to change.
• Musée de Confluences, 86 quai Perrache, admission 12 euros
• Léon de Lyon restaurant: www.leon-de-lyon.com
• Restaurant Casseroles et Vielles Gamelles: www.casserolesetvieillesgamelles.fr
• Lyon Tourist Office: Place Bellecour, open seven days a week, very helpful multi-lingual staff

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Author Bio: Mari S. Gold is a native New Yorker and avid world traveler. Her work has appeared in numerous publications and websites including Stratton Magazine, Passport Newsletter, Journeywoman, Go Nomad, Bootsnall, Go World Travel, Voices, published by New York State Historical Society, and The New York Times.

Her blog, But I Digress, focuses on travel, food and cultural pleasures. She writes for the New York Landmarks Conservancy; reviews dance and theater for TandBontheAisles and has a cat who sometimes accompanies her on travels.

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