Silver, Beer and Bones in Kutna Hora, Czech Republic

Enjoying some Czech beer. Flickr/Anders Adermark
Enjoying some Czech beer. Flickr/Anders Adermark

Nataliya has a light Dacicky, and I have a dark. We sample one another’s beers; they are both good. Between the three of us, we get a lot of meat to go with our beer. Alchemy was always a part of this region’s history, with the silver mine, but this place keeps it alive with alchemy in the kitchen. Such combinations as fish with fruit and beef with seafood. Plain pork (or wild boar knee, as the case may be) is fine with me.

“I feel like we’re in Lord of the Rings,” I say as I chew my meat and wash it down with dark Czech beer.

“The movies or the books?” Brian asks.

“I mean, first we’re in the silver mines of Moria, then we’re climbing mountains to St. Barbara’s Cathedral in Rivendel, then we hit that bone church,” I explain.

“And now we’re like the three trolls talking over meat and ale,” Nataliya adds. Brian and I look at her, surprised she even got the references.

“That’s The Hobbit, not Lord of the Rings,” Brian says.

Nataliya shrugs. We order another round of beer.

We talk about what we’ve seen and what we have yet to see. Other people, mostly locals, are at tables nearby in the gardens. The sun is setting but it is still light out. The wind is cool and it feels good to relax out here.

“We missed our train,” Brian says, looking at his watch.

“Oh no,” Nataliya says. “How are we going to get back to Prague.”

Brian pulls a train schedule from his pocket. “We’ll just catch the next one.”

“When is that,” I ask.

Brian’s eyes travel from his train schedule to his watch to his beer. “In about another beer.”

It actually takes two, but that makes catching the next train all the more enjoyable.

The author on the train from Prague. Photo courtesy Eric D. Goodman
The author on the train from Prague. Photo courtesy Eric D. Goodman

Getting to Kutna Hora

The easiest way to get to Kutna Hora from Prague is by train. You can catch a ride from the Prague Main Railway Station to Kutna Hora Main Railway Station or back again just about every two hours, six minutes past the hour, and it’s about a 50-minute ride. The ride is around $10 each way.

Kutna Hora is close enough to make for a great day trip, with trains leaving as early as 6 a.m. and returning as late as midnight. However, if you’d like to stay overnight in the land of silver, beer and bone, there are a number of hotel and apartment options that are as affordable as Prague. We made our journey a day trip, so we can’t suggest one over another. If you plan to visit the silver mines, keep your Sunday best in the closet, even if you plan to go to church.

Author Bio: Eric D. Goodman enjoys traveling as much as he loves writing. His fiction and travel stories have been published in many periodicals, including Go Nomad, InTravel Magazine, Travel Mag, The Washington Post, The Baltimore Review, The Pedestal Magazine, The Potomac, Grub Street, Scribble Magazine, and others. Eric’s the author of the award-winning Tracks: A Novel in Stories about travelers who connect on a train, Flightless Goose, a storybook for children, and the forthcoming Womb: a novel in utero. Learn more about Eric and his work at and connect with him at