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Cambodia's Angkor Wat: The Race to a Khmer Temple


At 4 a.m. on a humid November morning, my alarm goes off. I wake with excitement brewing inside me. Today, I will visit the magnificent temples of Angkor.

At this hour, I would expect to wake to tranquility and serenity, maybe even hear insects buzzing in the distance and surrounding leaves rustling under the whisper of a small breeze. This, however, is not the case in Siem Reap.

The weather is dry and the temperature cool, which means Siem Reap’s tourism population is at its high. Like me, it seems every other tourist looking for their next adventure has also risen early in hopes of discovering Angkor Wat before the onrush of other travelers.

An imposing stone sculpture guards the main causeway.
An imposing stone sculpture guards the main causeway.

Located in northern Cambodia, approximately a 45-minute drive north of Siem Reap, Angkor is home to the remains of the famous temples that served several Khmer Empires from the 9th to 15th centuries.

Known for their  architectural style, the temples’ mysterious stone walls are decorated with intricate carvings and sculptures of mythical figures and stories that scholars and researchers still work to unravel.

I want to see the famous temples for myself, so traveling to Angkor is a must.

Angkor Wat, the pride of many Khmers, is the only building to be displayed on any national flag. Built in the early 12th century, the Wat (the Khmer word for temple) shares over 160 mi² (414 km²) of land with many other glorious ancient temples, such as the Bayon and Baphuon temple, as well as the famous Ta Prohm. 

I would soon realize that no professional photograph, no exchange in conversation and no detailed piece of writing could ever do these temples justice. 

The sky of the early morning is pitch-black. The paucity of lamp posts would have made it difficult to make out the street if it weren’t for the slew of headlights from motorbikes, tuk-tuks, cars and tour buses.

My tuk-tuk driver, whom I had booked the day before, frantically waves me over as he stands to the side waiting.

I can hear sounds of engines roaring and the hum of people chit-chatting. My adrenaline is going and the race toward Angkor is on! Other vehicles are already passing  as I hop in the back of the tuk-tuk. My driver kick-starts his bike, throws it into gear, and we are off.

Dust flies into my face as we whiz past competing vehicles. The dirt road puts up a valiant fight against the onslaught of tourists who are determined to make it to Angkor before sunrise. The sounds of motors running and horns honking add to the already chaotic morning.



Continued: Cambodia’s Angkor Wat: The Race to a Khmer Temple
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