Bank On a Good Dive in Yap
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Bank On a Good Dive in
Yap!
By Larry Larsen
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| In Yap,
size is everything. The tiny island has stone coins that each weigh a
ton, while the nearby ocean reefs are home to giant manta rays, which have
15-foot (4.5 m) wingspans and each
weigh a ton. |
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Our group of five divers
clung to a reef, peering above the protective rocks and boulders for a
glimpse of a sea creature, one whose shadow would cover us all as it swept by
flapping huge wings. A strong tidal current was trying to rip us from our
attachments out to sea just a few hundred yards away. We shuffled around the
coral ridges seeking more protection from the current.
Finally, a shadow appeared
20 feet (6 m) above us in the murky Mi’l Channel waters, and the giant Manta Ray
swam by without even noticing us. Rulers of the underwater empire in this area
of the South Pacific, the Manta sightings on the islands of Yap, southwest of
Guam, are famed.
At times, the heavyweight
Mantas will pass close enough to touch and stare curiously at the divers. At
other times, the gentile giants are difficult to see in roily waters from a
storm on an outgoing tide. The legendary Mantas and the miles upon miles of
unspoiled reefs are only some of the island's attractions. The unique gigantic
stone money and the friendly people are other features that make this isolated
spot in the Micronesian Islands worth long distance travel.
Diving is perhaps the main
tourist attraction here. Yap Divers, Yap’s first full service professional dive
operation, was founded in 1989 and has since attracted scuba divers from all
over the world. Overall, you can choose from about 30 dive sites, the best being
Yap Caverns, Gilman Wall, Lionfish Wall, Valley of the Rays and Sharks Canyons.
There are many reefs still
waiting to be discovered in the 134 islands that make up Yap. There are also
great snorkeling spots around Yap that are accessible from land or by small
boat, if the waters are clear and undisturbed by rainy weather. Since waters
inside the reef are privately owned, it is necessary to obtain permission before
getting wet on some of the beautiful reefs.
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A Yap native stands aside
the proud gem
of his culture: ancient Stone Money, brought over from Palau. |
Fishing for mahi mahi,
tuna and wahoo is popular with some visitors. Two sportfishing charter
operations exist, offering expeditions on a regular basis.
Kayaking the fringing
reef is becoming ever more popular in Yap. But you should also try mountain
biking, hiking on ancient, centuries-old stone paths, or visiting the Stone
Money Banks on the islands.
A mix of past and present,
Yap retains its ancient culture, while forging into the 21st century.
The Stone Money for which
Yap is famous consists of huge round disks of solid stone rock than can weigh
hundreds of pounds. Since most of the rock found on Yap is shale, the Yapese
would canoe the 360 miles (579 km) southwest to Palau to quarry the volcanically
uplifted limestone created from ancient coral reefs. The tougher the voyage, the
higher the stone value.
These massive
“wheels” are usually displayed side by
side in a sort of outdoor
“money bank”
at one of the islands' thatched-roof villages to denote wealth or status. Men's Houses—stately structures found
in many villages that are much like a private clubhouse—stand beside the
banks alongside the stone money that seems un-moveable.
Today, Yap’s currency is
the U.S. dollar, but the stone money can still be used amongst the natives for
traditional exchange for purchase of land or inside village ceremonies.
Since Yap basically
opened for tourists only in 1989, the secluded culture has not changed a lot.
Many natives still wear traditional garb. Some men wear bright loin cloths and
women wear grass skirts and leis and dance topless at their ceremonies and
events (and in some cases, in everyday life). Village tours, dancing
presentations and the handicraft of Yap highlight a good visit.
Geographically, Yap
belongs to the
Western Caroline Islands,
while politically, it is one of the four states of the Federated States of
Micronesia. Consisting of several isles and 22 sparsely populated atolls
covering over 100,000 square miles (25,000 km²) of water, Yap is made up of a
total land mass of only 46 square miles (119 km²), a little more than 38 miles
(61 km) of which makes up Yap proper.
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Yapese locals dance in traditional garb.
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Four volcanic islands form
the majority of Yap, including Rumung, Maap, Gagil-Tomil and Yap Island itself.
Yap
and Gagil-Tomil are separated by a canal finished during the German
administration around the early 1900s.
At that time, Germany had
just purchased Yap from Spain in 1899, only to lose the colony after WWI when it
was administered by the League of Nations, a United Nation precursor. In 1920,
Yap came under Japanese mandate before the U.S. was granted Trusteeship by the
United Nations in 1947.
It wouldn’t be until
November 3, 1986, that Yap gained independence.
Yap has several
cross-island waterways, inlets and channels and an extensive shoreline, and the
600-foot (182 m) Tabywol Mountain. On Maap, although much of the land is rugged
and hilly, lush pockets of vegetation are visible in every direction. Red clay
valleys and ridges are distinctive to Gagil-Tomil.
The average temperature of
82 degrees Fahrenheit (27º Celsius) on Yap varies little throughout the year.
Rainfall averages 120 inches (3 m) a year and is seasonal; heavy rains occur
during summer months. The transitional months of May, June and November are peak
typhoon season.
Since the temperatures in
Yap are moderate and fairly constant, lightweight clothing and very casual
attire is always acceptable. For women, lightweight cotton dresses, blouses and
skirts are acceptable attire. However, it is considered highly offensive for
women to bare their thighs in public, such as wearing short shorts, bikinis or
mini-skirts (unless diving or sunbathing).
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Visitors to Yap will
find 100,000 square miles of silky,
sun-kissed, sea waters. |
Nearly all the land in Yap
is privately owned.
This includes stone paths, yards, coconut groves and beaches. Picture taking of
Yapese generally requires their permission.
Although Yapese, Ulithian, Woleian
and Satawalese are the four indigenous languages in Yap, English is the official
language. Electricity is identical to the U.S.
You may not see the style
and luxury that can be found on other larger islands, but the intriguing attractions of Yap will make your jaunt to
Micronesia unforgettable.
If You Go
For general information on
Yap, contact Yap Visitors Bureau, Bldg. #1, YVB Main Dr., Colonia, Yap FM 96943,
Western Caroline Islands or call 691-350-2298. Where to StayFor more information on
the island's best accommodations, contact Traders Ridge Resort, phone toll free
877-657-4695 or 691-350-6000, Fax 691-350-4279 or write P.O. Box B, Colonia, Yap
FSM 96943; email to Tradersridge@mail.fm or visit the website at
www.tradersridgeresort.com.
Diving
For information on the
diving, contact Yap Divers at 691-350-2300, visit their website at
www.mantaray.com or email to
yapdivers@mantaray.com.
