As we stepped off the boat, the “land” trembled beneath our feet. Some actually stumbled they were so startled. “I’m from California. I’m used to earthquakes” I quipped.
Actually I just pretended that I was still on a boat because, in a sense, I was.
The floating islands on Lake Titicaca in Peru are famous throughout South America. The Uros tribe members create their “land” from the long totora reeds that crowd the lake for miles in certain areas. They tie the harvested reeds in bundles to make great rafts, sometimes anchoring them with stone, but usually nestling them within the living reeds. More reeds are then chopped to create even surfaces for walking.
The reeds have many uses on the islands. The Uros skillfully weave them into boats that are wonderfully buoyant and they are the main building material for the homes. Even food is created from the pith of the reeds, which make a nourishing asparagus-like vegetable. Some of the pith is also dried and turned into flour, which is then made into bread.
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| It takes a skillful boatman to reach the Uros’ floating islands through a labyrinth of reeds. |
The Uros began their floating lifestyle about two centuries before the Spanish conquest. While the Incas were busy empire-building, the group marched to the lake. The Uros had lived on the shores until then, but with the advancement of Inca armies they took refuge, hiding in the reeds.
For a long time, the Incas did indeed march right on by to go to war with the Aymaras, who lived on the far side of this huge lake. The two armies battled back and forth for years. However, the Incas eventually discovered the Uros, resulting in enslavement and taxation of the island dwellers.
In the end, the Incas gave up, leaving the Aymaras triumphant. The Uros began a small trade with the Aymaras, providing fish and reeds for land-raised goods. Eventually, the Aymara tongue was adopted by the Uros.
One thing didn’t change — the Uros didn’t leave the reeds. They remained where they felt safe and knew how to survive. To this day, even finding the floating islands takes a canny guide and skillful boatman to reach the water paths amid the miles of reeds.
In the middle of the island where we had been welcomed was a small hole where the Uros kids learn to swim. When literally living on a lake, drown-proofing the children becomes a priority.
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There is also a small lookout tower on each island. This offers a way to stay in touch and signal one another as well as watch for trouble, or, these days, visitors.
While other Peruvian tribes revere Pachamama, or Mother Universe, the Uros revere Mother Lake. The bountiful lake provides them with fish and reeds, and the reeds provide them with nearly everything.
I notice strange-looking contraptions on the roofs of the straw huts. It seems the Uros used to use fish oil lamps or candles for light but that created a fire danger. Some bright soul came up with the idea of a small solar panel that could light a single light bulb and now most primitive straw huts throughout the villages have their own panel.
Continued: Walking on Water: The Floating Islands of Peru 1 |2 |Next
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