A clear patch on the horizon at sunset was enough for a view of the bright orange globe sinking over a vast expanse of ocean as the tide rippled just a few yards away. I grabbed my camera and tried to capture the moment. The sun bade its farewell for the evening and all was dark and silent.

The vague outline of a familiarly shaped statue by the shore was still there to remind us of where we were. This was Easter Island.

Hanga Roa, the only population center of any size on this 45 square mile (117 square kilometer) southeastern Pacific island, also is home to a number of small hotels and guest houses, plus the largely silent airport. Yes, Easter Island is remote - 1,260 miles (2,030 kilometers) from the nearest other inhabited island and 2,300 miles (3,700 kilometers) from the South American mainland. The few scheduled flights can, as we found, be subject to severe delays when the weather turns rough.

Petroglyphs at Orongo ceremonial village

This isolation, though, adds to the atmosphere. The rough-hewn local facilities, the crystal clear stars on a cloud-free night and the air of mystery that still hangs over the monolithic statues, the moai, also play their part. We may not have had reliable hot water at our guest house, and we may have needed flashlights to avoid turning an ankle in the dark and rutted streets at night, but as any real estate agent will tell you: location, location, location.

There is more to do than statue spotting, as well. The volcanic nature of the island makes for excellent hiking, and my two companions and I enjoyed a good day’s walk and some spectacular views by following the trail from Hanga Roa up to the crater of Rano Kau, and nosing around the ancient ancestral village of Orongo. Entry here cost 5,000 Chilean pesos ($10 U.S.) each, and the ticket includes one-time admission to other national park sites on the island.

There was a moment of banter with the park ranger as the woman in our party paid for her partner’s ticket as well as her own. Easter Island is historically Polynesian, with the local name of Rapa Nui, but is now a territory of Chile, with the Spanish name of Isla de Pascua, and sometimes carries the male attitudes of South America. However, the views of the volcano and the ocean alone were worth the price, and as we gazed down past the petroglyphs at the tiny offshore islands that had once been part of the rigorous “birdman” rituals, we knew we were right not to miss the site.

The less energetic will also find something for their souls on Easter Island. The palm trees, blue waters and sandy beach at Anakena, on the northern coast of the island, provide a stunning backdrop for the moai that stand there. Hanga Roa also boasts its own attractions, including traditional dance shows, and we found it hard to resist a lazy afternoon with a glass of the South American cocktail pisco sour and a good dig around the local craft markets, as well as visits to the fascinating anthropological museum and the Roman Catholic church, with its intriguingly Polynesian influenced decorations.