Sure, I know perfectly well that it is just a capricious wind gust sweeping over this town’s central plaza. But when hundreds of shimmering luminarias, small brown paper bags weighted down with sand and containing a lit candle, seem to mysteriously hiss and flicker at the same time it gives me goosebumps nevertheless. People say that Christmas time is a magical time here, and I slowly begin to sense why.
People have always been drawn to this high-desert plateau with mountain ranges on every side. Native Americans settled here for centuries. El Camino Real (The Royal Road), the lifeline of Spain’s New Mexican colonies, has run through town since the 1600s. A primary wagon and stage route to the Southwest until the coming of the railroad in 1880 ended here, and Route 66 — the most famous road in the U.S. highway system, dedicated in 1927 and linking Illinois with California — made a detour for this enchanted city.
Scents of piñon and juniper burning in fireplaces ascends through chimneys and curls up into the crisp mountain air. Countless luminarias sparkle in front yards, line sidewalks and gleam in public places. Wreaths and garlands made from fiery red chiles decorate heavy carved wooden doors and hang from protruding viga roof beams of adobe houses. To maintain its architectural heritage, strict building codes mandate territorial and Spanish revival – style buildings in the historic district.
This city is a microcosm, a unique melting pot of peoples and traditions. Descendants of ancestral Puebloans, Spanish colonists, French fur trappers and Anglo-American pioneers from the East Coast still call this town of about 72,000 home today. Recently many Mexican immigrants have joined them. The result is a marvelous mix of multicultural customs whose many facets unfold their charm particularly around Christmas.
Try to witness Las Posadas, originally a Spanish tradition brought to the New World by missionaries. Church groups usually organize this nine-day-celebration starting on December 16, which reenacts Mary and Joseph’s search for an inn with songs and processions. On Christmas Eve the search comes to a happy ending with a celebration and typically a potluck dinner with local favorites like pozole (hominy soup), tamales (meat, cheeses or sliced chilies inside steamed cornmeal dough) and crispy biscochitos, butter cookies flavored with anise and cinnamon.
The annual Christmas at the Palace celebration at the Palace of the Governor, an adobe structure originally constructed in the early 17th century as the seat of government for the Spanish Territory in the American Southwest, blends Hispanic, Anglo and Native American Christmas traditions with carols, story telling, Santa and his elves, music and Matachines dances, first brought to the New Word by Spanish missionaries to encourage Native Americans to convert to Christianity, and now part of both Hispanic and Indian religious tradition.
It has begun to snow. Big, fluffy flakes are falling silently from the milky winter’s sky. With an icy dusting on flat roofs, over doors and windowsills, the traditional adobe-style buildings start looking like gingerbread houses. The chilly white on the warm-colored brown of the sun-dried bricks is a fascinating contrast.
Where am I?
Send your answer to goworld@goworldpublishing.com. All readers correctly identifying this park and location will be entered in a drawing to receive a recently published travel book.
Answer to the November 2007 “Where in the World” Contest
Last month’s mystery destination was Custer State Park, in South Dakota.
Thanks to all who wrote in their guesses. This month’s winner is Barry, from Ontario, Canada. Congratulations, Barry! |