In Search of Sea and Sand: Ft. Myers, Florida

WANTED: Relaxing beachside getaway for family
in need of warm sun and ocean breezes.
Clean seashores, gentle waters and kid-friendly activities a plus.
Overcrowded and frenzied destinations need not apply.

There is nothing wrong with crisp winter days or snow-filled landscape. This season has a beauty of its own. At times, though, the cold days grow long. I dream of the sun, the smell of the sea and the squish of sand between my toes.

So it's no surprise to anyone who knows me and my family when we opt to spend our vacation on the beaches of Florida. Yet, as we pull out the guidebooks to plan our trip, the question comes up: Where in Florida do we go? After all, America’s Sunshine State has more than 1,200 miles (1,930 km) of coastline to choose from.

We eventually decide on Fort Myers, a scenic, kid-friendly town of 48,000 on Florida's Gulf Coast. Besides the city's own beaches, the region boasts some 100 barrier and coastal islands — a virtual playground for lovers of sand and sea.

Wanting to stay right on the beach, we choose the Gulf Breeze Cottages on Sanibel Island, the largest of the outlying isles, as our initial base. We've never stayed in our own beach cottage before, and the kids barely drop their luggage in the simple, but well-appointed small house before they're out on the beach. My husband and I follow, reminding the kids that they still are in their street clothes.

But that doesn't matter. Within minutes, they're in the water, squealing as they jump over the waves. The cottage has provided beach chairs, coolers and umbrellas, so my husband and I give in and spend the rest of the day on the sand, sipping cool drinks and reading.

By day two, we're up for exploring the island. The 12-mile-long (19 km) Sanibel is home to some 6,000 year-round residents who fiercely protect its natural beauty. Bike paths crisscross the isle, and there are no traffic lights. You won't find chain restaurants and there are no structures taller than the largest palm tree.

Examing a horseshoe crab on Captiva Island

Sanibel is known for eco-tourism and one of its best offerings is the J.N. "Ding" Darling National Wildlife Refuge. The preserve, with more than 5,200 acres (21 km²) of mangrove ecology, is home to manatees, alligators, otters and other creatures. We plan to take a family kayaking trip through the refuge. But it's already hot when we arrive, and my winter-hardy kids virtually melt in the humidity and heat.

"It's too hot out here," our oldest whines.

"And there are bugs!" our eight-year-old adds, slapping at her back.

Sure enough, we forgot the bug spray — a must for outdoor activities in Florida — and there is no way we're going onto the water without it. So we sprint back to the pro shop and slap down an outrageous price for the precious spray.

While our kids are still not happy, we forge ahead with the kayaks and try our hand at paddling. As we glide across the waters, fish jump out of the water, egrets swoop in and a curious alligator eyes us. Little by little, the heat is forgotten. The mangroves form tunnels over the waterways, and it's otherworldly as we wind our way through their fairy-tale maze.

By the end of our tour, we are tired but happy. "Did you see that cool 'gator?" our son asks, comparing notes with his sisters as if the trip were the kids' idea all along.

In celebration of our kayaking success, we head to what turns out to be one of the highlights of the trip for our kids, The Bubble Room. The pastel-colored restaurant is done in a Christmas theme, with thousands of dollars worth of antique toys on display, while every room has a train going around the top. It's the food, though, that draws the locals back again and again.

Waiters are called Bubble Scouts at the restaurant, and our scout asks the question we've been asked over and over on the island: "Have you found any good shells yet?"

Shelling is a national sport around here. In fact, Sanibel is one of the few places one can make a living as a shelling captain. It's not uncommon to see locals with flashlights strapped to their hats out searching the sand in the early morning hours.

Looking for shells on Sanibel

Since shelling is fairly new to us, we stop in at the Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum for some tips from the experts. I'm not too excited at the thought of spending two hours looking at shells, but the museum's hand-on exhibits draw me in. There are huge shells, poisonous shells, shells of every shape and size. Who knew that mollusks could be so interesting?

Armed with this new knowledge, we board the Sun Princess later that week for a shelling cruise to the beaches of North Captiva Island. Accessible only by boat, the area is a shelling paradise, with thousands of perfectly shaped creations along the shoreline. (Parental tip about North Captiva: Nude bathing is popular on one side of the island. Having been forewarned, we make sure that curious little eyes stay on our side of the isle.) The trip turns out to be a success — the kids find their shells and mom and dad have a relaxing boat ride through the outlying islands.

While the barrier isles are lovely, the town of Fort Myers also has a lot to offer. Wanting to explore this coastal city, we move to a roomy condominium at Sanibel Harbour Resort & Spa. Located on the Fort Myers side of the bay overlooking Sanibel and Captiva Islands, we have a view of dolphins cavorting in the water and boats going in and out. The resort boasts an award-winning Kids Klub, and we spend an afternoon rooting for sand crabs at the resort's weekly sand crab races.

Even parents need a break from the kids sometimes, so the next day my better half and I head down palm-tree lined McGregor Boulevard on a mission of our own. We're hoping to see a little bit of American genius — both Thomas Edison and Henry Ford made their winter homes in Fort Myers.

The Edison and Ford winter estates have been carefully conserved and are open to visitors. In 1886, Edison built his stately home along the Caloosahatchee River. Henry Ford, his good friend, soon followed, building a house right next door. The two men spent many hours puttering in their laboratories, talking out on the porches and trying to catch that trophy fish.

Edison also had a love for all things green. The prolific inventor had a huge botanical garden, and brought in plants from all over the world. My favorite was a 400-foot (122m) wide Banyan tree from Calcutta, India. Its expansive shade is just the thing for a warm afternoon.

We spend our last Florida evening on the wide shores of Fort Myers Beach, a favorite draw for tourists and locals alike. We buy ice cream cones near the boardwalk at Times Square and then sit down on the beach to eat them.

There is hardly any surf at this time of day, and we watch a group of local boys running and riding their boogie boards like skate boards across the water. This strange sport appeals to our six-year-old son, and within minutes he has joined them, skimming on a borrowed board across the water. I watch, trying to stifle my fear that he'll fall on his head.

Boys "surf" across the calm waters in Fort Myers, Florida.

Eventually, we continue our stroll down the beach, walking through ankle-deep tide pools warmed by the sun. The sun begins to dip on the horizon, casting its golden rays across the sea, and I stop to take a few pictures of this gorgeous scene.

Seeing this, a woman passing by offers to take our picture with the camera slung around my neck. So we pose, standing in the water, the Florida sun reflecting in our smiles.

Someday, all too soon, I know my children will be grown. I often wonder what they'll remember from the trips we take. But I hope at least two Florida images will remain in their memories: being together as a family and playing beside the sea.

If You Go

The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel
www.fortmyers-sanibel.com
800-237-6444 (US and Canada)
239-338-3500 (Outside of the US and Canada)

Other kid-friendly attractions

Imaginarium — This hands-on museum for kids is a perfect place to spend the afternoon if you'd like to slow down and cool off. There are dozens of exotic animals to see up close, from iguanas to turtles to sharks.
www.cityftmyers.com/attractions/imaginarium.aspx
239-337-3332

Manatee Park — Pack a picnic and take the kids to see West Indian Manatees in their natural environment (the season runs mid-November to mid-April). You can also rent kayaks and head onto the Orange River.
www.leeparks.org
239-694-3537

Sanibel Lighthouse Boardwalk — This historic lighthouse has been a treasured landmark since 1884.
239-472-6397.