Port Stephens
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Port
Stephens,
New South Wales
A Meeting of Two Worlds
By Vincent
Moore
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Just 2.5 hours north of Sydney, Port
Stephens offers a whole different kind of beach experience. |
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Port Stephens, Australia is a place that sneaks
up on you, even if you are paying attention. The abundant wildlife and natural
bushland are in constant battle with the telltale signs of civilization.
Any traveler to Port Stephens has to quickly get
used to koalas lazily eating leaves in a tree in someone’s backyard, kangaroos
sneaking a quick meal in a farmer’s crops or a porcupine-like echidna waddling
across a pedestrian crossing at a local shopping center.
It’s a place where the unlikely worlds of the
Australian bushland, beach culture and small-town life come together. But it all
comes together nicely in Port Stephens.
Port Stephens is two and a half hours north of
Sydney and an hour drive north of Newcastle in the Australian state of New South
Wales. It’s an easy day trip for travelers who want to
see the beauty and nature of the coast of Australia, but don’t want the hassle
of the high-density crowds of tourists that they may find further north up the
coast in Coffs Harbour or Byron Bay, or south in Sydney or Newcastle.
In truth, it’s not a town in its own right, but
rather a region that is divided into five areas: the Tomaree Peninsula, the
Tilligerry Peninsula, the Golden Bight, the Gateways and the Hinterland. Actually, Port Stephens itself is the bay in
which the area surrounds.
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Anna Bay |
Bush covers most of the 386 square miles (1000
square km²) of the area although there is numerous signs of civilization that
range from farms to full-blown townships.
The area is rapidly growing, boasting a regional
population of about 60,000 and is fast becoming a place where many people from
Sydney are choosing to resettle or retire. As a result, life moves at its own
pace in Port Stephens.
The people of Port Stephens are a stark contrast
to others in the area. They are much more laid back than in Sydney and will take
the time to have a quick chat with a visitor. When out and about you’re most
likely to get a pleasant ‘g’day’ and plenty of conversation from one of the
locals without much prompting, especially if they realize you are a visitor.
Nelson Bay is the cultural center
of Port Stephens and has the largest marina and the largest information center
in the area. While it is busier than the other townships, it still has a
small-town feel to it.
Since the total population of Australia is equal
that of the New York metropolitan area, Australian towns tend seem sparse
compared to most American small towns. Nelson Bay is no different. It’s like
Mayberry, USA, but with a definite Australian flavor. There is no heavy traffic
like in Sydney and a visitor who is lost along the way will be gladly given
directions to their destination.
The quiet, narrow streets of Nelson Bay have
barbers, pharmacists, ice cream shops, bookshops and several places to buy the
local paper or get a quick coffee, all within walking distance
Port Stephens has a long and storied history.
Aboriginal tribes known as the Worimi first inhabited the region. The Worimi
consisted of the Grewerigal, Gamipinigal and Maiagal hordes that lived on the
waterfronts around the port and with two other hordes more inland. They were
noted as being fairer in skin color and taller than the Port Jackson Aboriginals
that lived closer to Sydney.
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Sailing at sunset in Port
Stephens |
The existence of the Worimi in the area is
evident in the occupational sites and artifacts left behind such as scar trees
and shell middens.
The Aboriginals in the area today are intermixed
with the population as they are in the rest of Australia, but many of their
artifacts can be seen around the area such as old campgrounds and settlement
areas.
Charles Grimes, Deputy Survey of the Colony of
New South Wales went to Port Stephens in 1795. Later that same year, Captain
W.R. Broughton turned the HMS Providence
into Port Stephens and was shocked to find five whites living with the Worimi.
These turned out to be five convicts who had escaped from Parramatta, which lies
near Sydney. They had shipwrecked at Port Stephens in 1790. They were welcomed
into the tribe by the Worimi, who gave them wives and took them along on their
wanderings.
Port Stephens was a haven for convicts escaping
from Sydney. This led to the establishment of a garrison in 1820, which today is
known as Soldiers Point. The area continued to grow throughout the 1800s. During
World War II, it served as a station for American troops in the South Pacific.
Major development has begun in the region only
recently and for the most part many of the bushlands, forests and beaches in the
region are unspoiled. Conservationists and many regional officials are very
careful to keep the balance between nature and development.
Sights of Port Stephens
As with many coastal communities in Australia,
beaches are a main feature of Port Stephens. The beaches here in Port Stephens
have all the panoramic views and powerful surf the same as most beaches in
Australia, but without the crowds. Even in the height of summer, there is no
struggling to find a prime place to lay in the sun, as there would be in Bondi
Beach or the beaches in Newcastle.
One-Mile Beach in Anna Bay is a
hidden oasis which can be found via a series of sandy paths that lead to the
secluded beach. Most of One-Mile Beach is surrounded by bushland that belongs to
the Tomaree National Park.
Those feeling a little bit more risqué may like
Samurai Beach, the only place in the area where nude sunbathing is allowed.
Zenith Beach in Shoal Bay sits in the shadow of Tomaree Peak and its quiet
surroundings and majestic view offer you a place to reflect on the beauty of
nature.
Shoal Bay in particular has a little bit of
history with the World War II gun mounts found at the end of the rigorous walk
up Tomaree Peak. Make sure, however to allow at least a couple of hours for the
trip and bring a good pair of walking shoes. The climb is almost all uphill with
very little leveling off. It is all worth it when you make it to the top though,
as the view of the entrance to Port Stephens is second to none.
The most very unique feature in Anna Beach is
the Stockton Sand Dunes. The Dunes are a 20-mile (32-km) stretch of yellow sand
drifts that are at least 98 feet (30 meters) high, and 0.62 mile (one km) wide
back-to-front. The entrance to the dunes is just past the main section of the
Anna Bay Township.
At first glance, the dunes appear to stretch on
forever. Looking out into the drifts themselves, it looks more like a scene from
the Sahara than coastal Australia. Huge triangular blocks serve as a boundary
between the expanse of the dunes and the ocean.
At this site rows of large cement pyramids were
traps designed to keep tanks at bay. They were put there during World War II in
case the Japanese decided to invade Australia via Port Stephens.
If you’re up for exploring the dune, you can go
on one of the many four-wheel or six-wheel drive tours, or take a horse,
quad-bike or a dirt bike. But if you really want the feeling of being out in a
desert without having to deal with the dehydration and danger that comes with
it, you can go on foot.
A word of caution if you choose that method,
however. Although you may be on foot, that doesn’t mean others will be. Keep
your eyes and ears open for one of the four-wheel or six-wheel drives or dirt
bikes that may suddenly pop up over the dunes. And while you have to try a
little bit to get lost in the dunes as in a real desert, trekking the dunes can
take a little time and can be dangerous because of the vehicles that are
traveling around them.
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The Stockton Sand Dunes
at Anna Beach appear to stretch on forever. |
Many people skip the tours altogether and go
sandboarding instead, which is similar to snowboarding. Sandboarders sail down
the yellow loose sand any way they can, on everything from legitimate boogie
boards to pieces of cardboard.
For the adventurous traveler, a jaunt down the
dunes with a tour, on horseback or on foot many get you a glimpse of Tin City or
the wreck of the Sygna.
Tin City, which takes a bit of patience to find,
is just what it sounds like—several tin buildings out in the middle of the
dunes—and is home to squatters.
There is also a wreck of a Norwegian bulk carrier in the
Sygna dunes that was pounded and carried to its present location by one of the
worse storms in Australian history in 1974. You can probably find these places
on your own, but it’s best to take a tour.
Eco-tourism is a main attraction in Port
Stephens, as it’s a good spot to spot local wildlife and to go whale and dolphin
watching. Between May and November, some 5,000 humpback whales migrate in a path
that takes them past Port Stephens and if one is patient enough, it’s possible
to catch them in action.
Several tours cater to whale and dolphin
watching; most are fairly reasonable and offer money back if no whales or
dolphins are sighted. And if you don’t want to pay for a tour, simply sit at one
of the beaches or lookouts in the area.
One good spot is Boat Harbour. The township,
which sits right next to Anna Bay, looks out into the Pacific Ocean in the
migration path for whales and dolphins. A good pair of binoculars makes the
viewing much more exciting, but it still won’t have the same effect as being on
the water in a boat on one of the whale-watching tours.
Around 60-80 dolphins can be regularly seen in
Port Stephens itself. There is also abundant fishing in the area where the
sportsman can tackle the challenging task of trying to rope in game such as
flathead, whiting, tailor snapper, jewfish or blackfish.
The wildlife in Port Stephens is quite at home
with the people who live there. Keep a sharp eye out for a koala in a tree or a
kangaroo on the side of the road. To most Australians, kangaroos are as common
as deer in North America. And, like deer, they are interesting to watch from a
distance, but can be a hazard to drivers.
If you want to ensure you see the area’s
wildlife, consider arranging a bushwalk through one of the many tour operators
in the area, or visit the Tilligerry Habitat Activity Centre,
which offers guided koala tours.
So, whether it’s a love of nature, a chance to
see unique wildlife or the need to get away from the hectic pace of Sydney for a
least a day or two, Port Stephens offers all three in abundance.
If You Go
Port Stephens
www.portstephens.org.au
Where to stay
Clydesdale Bed and Breakfast
www.clydesdalebb.com
An excellent Bed and Breakfast in Anna Bay. It is just a minute from both the
Stockdale Dunes and One Mile Beach. Clydesdale is owned by Russell and Therese
Antcliff and it is a place where you can get a nice, warm bed, a great meal and
beautiful surroundings. But the real bonus is getting to know the Antcliffs. You
get fantastic conversation from Therese and just about any information on Port
Stephens that you may ever want to know from Russell. The best part about that
is that it’s free, but the information is priceless. It is also pet-friendly,
just in case you take your pet along.
Stockton Sand Dunes Tours
www.sandsafaris.com.au – Sand Safaris
www.saharatrails.com – Sahara Trails
www.users.bigpond.com/horseparadise – Beach and Bush Riding Adventures
http://www.portstephensduneadventures.com – Port Stephens Dune Adventures
Dolphin and Whale tours
www.nelsonbaydolphinwatch.com.au – Nelson Bay Charters
www.portstephens.org.au/imagine – Imagine Cruises
A few more interesting places
Tilligerry Habitat Activity Centre
East King Albert Avenue, Tanilba Bay
Phone: 011-61-02-4984-5677
Tanilba House – Built in 1831 by convicts. It is
one of the oldest historical monuments in Australia
Caswell Crescent, Tanilba Bay 2319
Phone: 011-61-02-4982-4866
Note: For phone numbers, 011 is international code, 61 is Australia code and 02
is New South Wales code.
