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Lively Twins: Minneapolis and St. Paul


Mention to your friends that you’re traveling to Minnesota, and you might get a blank stare in return. It is a place, after all, that is known for its bitterly cold winters, the quirky accents of its natives and the mysterious sport of ice fishing. But lately, Minneapolis — the largest city in this upper-Midwestern state — and its twin, Saint Paul, have developed a much-deserved reputation as a cosmopolitan, artistically vibrant metropolis. Spend a weekend her, and you’ll never utter a mocking “you betcha” again.

Friday

Start your trip off in a very stylish way by booking a room at the Chambers Hotel (www.chambersminneapolis.com), which opened in 2006. The Chambers features original artwork by Damien Hirst, Tracy Emin, Alec Soth and others in the lobby and the 60 guest rooms. World-renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten (of New York’s Spice Market) is the man behind the Chambers Kitchen, the hotel’s restaurant.

For the evening, check out some of the cities’ excellent theater. Minneapolis and Saint Paul have one of the most vibrant theater communities in the United States. The Guthrie Theater (www.guthrietheater.org) is the big name in town, and the company’s 2007-2008 season includes productions of Jane Eyre and Ibsen’s Peer Gynt.

Spoonbridge and Cherry is a popular work of art at the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden.

Spoonbridge and Cherry is a popular work of art at the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden.

Even if you’re not in the mood for a play, you can still take in the stunning Jean Nouvel–designed facility on the banks of the Mississippi River, which opened in 2006.

Other notable local companies include the Children’s Theatre Company (www.childrenstheatre.org), whose 2003 production of A Year with Frog and Toad was nominated for three Tony Awards, and Theatre de la Jeune Lune (www.jeunelune.org).

If you’re in search of a post-show cocktail, the cities offer plenty of options for the discriminating imbiber. Psycho Suzi’s Motor Lounge is a retro-styled tiki bar in Northeast Minneapolis that serves pizzas to a motley crew of punks, yuppies and hipsters. Or if you’re in the mood for a more sedate experience, try Saint Paul’s Moscow on the Hill. Technically a restaurant serving a full menu of Russian food, it also has an extensive vodka list — spirits are available from 17 different countries — and a variety of specialty martinis.

National Geographic's Store has great gift ideas.

Saturday

Continue your artistic escapades by visiting the Walker Art Center (www.walkerart.org), one of the premier institutions dedicated to contemporary art. The museum, designed by Pritzker Prize–winning architects Herzog & de Meuron, is home to works by Donald Judd, Bruce Nauman and Kara Walker.

Directly across the street is the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden, where you’ll see Claes Oldenburg’s iconic Spoonbridge and Cherry sculpture. You might also want to swing by the Frank Gehry–designed Weisman Art Museum (www.weisman.umn.edu) on the University of Minnesota campus, where the permanent collection features work by Georgia O’Keefe and Roy Lichtenstein.

After you’ve explored the local museums, head to Minneapolis’ funky Whittier neighborhood for coffee or a light lunch at Spyhouse Coffee (2541 Nicollet Ave. S.). Steps from the Minneapolis College of Art and Design, this trendy café features retro furnishings, a hip soundtrack and the work of local artists on the walls.

If you’re taken with the retro furnishings at Spyhouse, you can pick up a similar mid-century souvenir at one of the numerous vintage boutiques around the state’s capital city, Saint Paul. Succotash and Up Six are great places to pick up furniture, housewares and other miscellany, while Lula features a hand-picked selection of vintage clothes for men and women.



Continued: Lively Twins: Minneapolis and St. Paul
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