It’s entrenched lore that every Frenchman wakes up thinking: “And what will I eat today?” British Columbians are apt to be more specific: They think plump beach-run oysters with lingering aftertastes of fresh cucumber; Dungeness crab of incredible sweetness; organic duck in the crispy-skinned confit of a lifetime; lamb raised in the salt-air meadows of the Gulf Islands; and the voluptuous fruits, berries and wines of the Okanagan Valley.

Four years to go until the 2010 Winter Olympics, and British Columbia is already looking to the gold for tickling palates. “Fresh,” “pure” and “organic” are mantras for an adventurous generation of homegrown chefs who look no farther than their own backyards for prime ingredients.

Vancouver’s dining scene is widely acknowledged as daring and provocative. C, situated on False Creek, is among the most dedicated fish restaurants in Canada’s history, its menu a catalogue of Pacific swimmers from Kushi oysters to sablefish (a.k.a., black cod) and Queen Charlotte halibut. 

C boasts equal dedication to quality; it was the founding restaurant of the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise Program that helps restaurants and their customers make environmentally friendly seafood choices. Executive chef Robert Clark has de-constructed seafood supply lines, working directly with fishermen to ensure both quality and sustainability.

With chef David Hawksworth’s powerful contemporary cooking, West earned Vancouver Magazine’s “Restaurant of the Year” in 2005.

Long the glamour girl of Vancouver hotel restaurants, the Metropolitan Hotel’s Diva at the Met has embraced B.C. foods, romancing local product and wines in an energetic open kitchen under executive chef Ray Henry. 

In Henry’s universe, the sweetness of Dungeness crab provides the base for a 21st century salad of poached mango, grapefruit and lime coulis, with a cumin crisp tossed in for crunch. Diva’s signature dish, Alaskan black cod, takes the smoked delicacy through the roof.

As Vancouver Magazine’s “Restaurant of the Year” in 2005, West is a lofty forum for local David Hawksworth’s powerful contemporary cooking. Hawksworth revels in B.C.’s bounty of 86 kinds of fresh fish. And he touts the local pine mushroom as second only to foie gras in the euphoria department. 

Recently, he was curing wild salmon in beets and citrus — a riff on sweet-and-sour — and gilding his gastro-lily with crispy fried oysters and lemon butter. Among Hawksworth’s desserts is a flag-waver: tart of Okanagan golden delicious apples and candied walnuts, sided with maple syrup ice cream and an apple chip.

Across the Georgia Strait on Vancouver Island, Victoria, the once-staid B.C. capital, has bounced to life with everything from 5-stars to fish-and-chippers, and the highest per-capita number of restaurants in Canada. At the Arbutus Grille at Brentwood Bay Lodge & Spa, chef Scott Dickson interweaves B.C.’s best ingredients to fashion memorable, stylistic dishes.

Think local foraged mushrooms, succulent kiwi salad and organic vegetables from the Saanich Peninsula, mingled with offerings such as tamari-roasted sablefish, braised lamb cheeks with Bing cherry demi-glaze and crispy skinned rockfish.

Dock 503 sits among masts and sails at the Van Isle Marina, 20 minutes from Victoria. Helmed by chef Michael Minshull, this quaint locale showcases the young maestro’s flair for invention and passion for following the harvest: His sesame-dusted Chinook salmon pavé (mousse) seduces with silken consistency, while maple-glazed Fraser Valley quail coupled with grilled baby romaine and green pea, and basil velouté is sure to kick-start even the most jaded palate. 

Sweets lovers are done proud: Minshull brings to the table warm gingerbread French toast, a bittersweet “B-52” soufflé and a rich, decadent milk-chocolate fondue.