The man crouches low to the ground, one eye squinting, carefully taking aim before flicking his index finger off his thumb. The struck piece of sheep bone whizzes through the air and slams into the pyramid of anklebones assembled just for this very collision. The crowd applauds, and the competitor — modest in a typically humble Mongolian way — nods his head slightly in response. He stands and moves aside for the next shooter to take position.
Anklebone shooting is the newest event at the annual Naadam Festival just outside of Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia, a country of north-central Asia between Russia and China. Established in 1921 to mark the anniversary of the nation’s independence from China, “Eriyn Gurvan Naadam,” as the festival is officially named, refers to the original “Three Manly Sports” involved: wrestling, archery and horse racing. Today, little boys in Mongolia grow up dreaming of becoming a wrestler, an archer, or perhaps a sheep-bone shooter.
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Traditional Mongolian culture and modern style
are both apparent among the crowds. |
Naadam draws an audience from all over this rugged country, as well as a fair number of foreign tourists. Every year, the festival occurs on and around July 11 to honor the anniversary of the Mongolian Revolution. Most events take place over three days, supplemented by cultural programs sponsored by the Arts Council of Mongolia.
At the entrance to the stadium where the opening ceremonies are held, it is difficult not to notice the strange juxtaposition of traditional culture and modern style. Young Mongolians from Ulaanbaatar, the capital and the largest city (population 735,000), are decked out mostly in Western-style clothing — shorts, jeans, T-shirts, sneakers.
The older generations, however, and people who come in from the countryside, dress in traditional garb. Men on horseback weave stoically through the crowds, heads held high in velvet-trimmed caps, bodies draped in elegant and colorfully embroidered coats, feet protected by pointy leather boots that curl up at the toe. Women, their silky black hair braided to the middle of their backs, wear similar costumes in a rainbow of colors. They stand tall and proud, a characteristic evident in most Mongolian faces. These are the descendants of the mighty Chinggis Khan, who is still ceremoniously honored every year at the opening festivities.
Last July, over 500 wrestlers competed at the 83rd Naadam Festival. The competitors sat waiting on the side of the wrestling rings as Mongolian President Bagabandi presented the opening speech. Afterward, the first of eight grueling rounds of wrestling began.
One little wrestler drew significant attention from the crowd, even though he wasn’t there to compete. Only about one-quarter the size of the smallest competitor, this toddler was dressed in identical garb to the competitors — hat, loincloth, boots, and all. His grandfather chased him around the field as he scampered about, the crowd egging him on. Perhaps someday he, too, will be a champion.
Continued: Mongolia’s Naadam Festival: Travel in Mongolia 1 |2 |Next
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