My first glimpse of Northern Thailand comes as a bit of a shock. From all the stories I’ve heard about Bangkok, with its teaming crowds and frenzied avenues, I had imagined that all of Thailand was one huge mass of people, moving about in their busy lives.

But here, in the northern town of Chiang Rai, life seems to move at a slower pace.

The wide, unhurried streets are dotted with bikes, pickup trucks and mopeds. Female bike passengers, wearing modest skirts, sit sidesaddle behind their drivers. The avenues are lined with the deep greens of lush trees and plants and the colorful reds of temples and shops. There are children in blue school uniforms playing on the sidewalk, and shoppers attending their business in the small stalls that line the sidewalks.

Life in the north is a whole other Thailand. “We’re more traditional here than in Bangkok,” a local woman tells me. Later, I view those conservative values when I’m out shopping. Everywhere I go younger people greet their elders — even 30-something me — with a polite Sawadee (hello) and a bow with hands held together in front. “In Bangkok, many kids don’t use that greeting anymore,” a vendor later says, shaking her head in disapproval.

Northern Thailand is hill country, and laid-back Chiang Rai is the perfect base to explore the region. Located 700 miles (1,100 km) north of Bangkok, the city is reached by a one-hour flight from the capital. Burma, once a prosperous land that now struggles under the heavy hand of a military government that renamed the country “Myanmar,” lies just 35 minutes northwest of Chiang Rai. Laos, another land that has seen its share of war, is 30 minutes northeast. The three countries meet in a fertile area called the Golden Triangle — a region that was once the opium-producing capital of the world.

A vendor offers her artwork at the Chiang Rai night bazaar.

Chiang Rai has a population of 1.2 million, yet it feels like a small town. After dropping my things at the Wiang Inn, which charges US$ 35 for a lovely room and breakfast, I head out to the city’s night bazaar. It’s 8 pm, but the lanes are overflowing with vendors selling carvings, handcrafts and instruments — all at amazingly low prices.

There are dozens of food stands, and the rich smell of Thai cooking makes me hungry. One stand, I notice, offers plates of well-cooked beetles, crickets and bamboo larvae worms. Although the dishes smell good, somehow I can’t get over the thought of eating bug legs.

The weather is warm, and I feel safe walking around town. There are families strolling on the uncrowded sidewalks, and shops are open for business. Many vendors smile in greeting, and give encouragement each time I try a few Thai words. The Thai, I soon discover, are a kind and gracious people

Yet the Thai are not the area’s only residents. The nearby hills are home to six distinct hill tribes. The Akha, Karen, Lisu, Yao, Hmong and Lahu each have their own language and culture. These 540,000 tribal people lead remote lives, and a visit to their villages is like stepping back in time.

Many of the villages have limited electricity and no indoor plumbing; homes are made of bamboo and thatched roofs. Most tribesmen depend on farming for their livelihood, and villages migrate between the steep hills of China, Thailand, Burma, Laos and Vietnam whenever the soil at their present location is depleted.

Tourism to the hill tribe country is growing each year, and I can’t wait to experience this unique side of Thailand. To familiarize myself on the region, I stop at the Hill Tribe Museum and Education Center for information on the various tribes.

The Karen are known for using elephants in their farming, while the Lisu stay together as extended families. The Akha, who are spiritists, have a special gate at the village to prevent bad spirits, and the Lahu tribe prides themselves on their trapping and hunting skills. The Yau have a language and culture similar to the Chinese, and the Hmong have large families averaging eight children per family.

The tribes welcome visitors, and have come to depend on the economic boost tourism provides. Still, there are a few things to keep in mind when visiting the villages: Don’t show physical affection (it’s offensive). Don’t enter a home without invitation or take photographs without asking first. Do be friendly and enjoy the visit.

Trekking companies offer the easiest way to visit the hill tribe region, from half-day visits to week-long treks where guests can stay overnight in the villages. But I plan to visit the hill country with my friend A-Je, who is from the Akha tribe, and Nancy, his American wife.