Imagine lying in your sleeping bag, listening to the sound of waves, knowing the ocean is a few hundred yards from your “bedroom.” Wild ponies walk by your campsite at breakfast while seagulls cry out for your leftovers.

After eating, you leave your beach-side kitchen, take your beach chair, gather up the kids and walk the short distance to sit by the ocean. This is beach camping at Assateague Island, Maryland.

But as idyllic as this sounds, beach camping can be a challenge. Located 10 miles (16 km) south of Ocean City, Maryland, Assateague Island has been part of the American National Park System since 1965. A barrier island, it rests between the Atlantic Ocean and Sinepuxent Bay in Worcester County, Maryland. Assateague Island straddles two American states — Maryland and Virginia.

The island is divided into three areas: Assateague Island National Seashore, run by the National Park Service; Assateague State Park, managed by Maryland’s Department of Natural Resources; and Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge on the far southern end of the island in Virginia and operated by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.

Roughing it at the beach

There are no accommodations on Assateague Island — camping is the only way to go. The island has two campgrounds: one owned and operated by the state of Maryland; the other a national campground.

Both include ocean-side and bay-side campgrounds. The visitor centers, bathhouses, and exhibits are wheelchair accessible along with two campsites that can be reserved. For those who just want a brief beach experience, there is a day beach, which is perfect for vacationers staying at Ocean City who prefer a less-crowded beach.

Assateague Island and its even better-known sister island, Chincoteague, are famous for their wild pony herds. On the final Wednesday of each July, thousands of visitors gather on both shores to watch the herds of wild ponies as they are gathered and herded across three-quarters of a mile (1.2 km) of shallows that separate Assateague and Chincoteague. On the Thursday of that week, the ponies are counted and some are auctioned off, with proceeds going to the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Department. On the Friday of that week, the remaining ponies are herded back to Assateague.

Campers know, however, that while the ponies are fun to watch, they can be a nuisance. People aren’t allowed to feed them, but that doesn’t stop the ponies from trying to get into your food and trash. One night, I had to chase ponies away from our dining tent, and they were in no hurry to leave!

The state campground offers many popular camp sites. Reservations are encouraged, as there are waiting lists. You must have reservations for the annual pony round-up. Many campers choose to “chance it,” especially during the week.

The bathhouses have hot showers and flush toilets. The park also has a dump station for trailers and motor homes, but no hookups. There are paved areas for vehicles and sand areas where campers may pitch tents. The paved areas are large enough for motor homes and trailers as well. Pets are not allowed at the state campground.

The National Park Campground is much more rustic with ocean-side and bay-side camping. There are chemical toilets, drinking water and cold, rinse-off showers. Several ocean-side “walk-in” sites are beautiful, if you don’t mind hauling your gear 50 feet (15 m) or so. Pets are allowed in this area.