You're no doubt aware of Oktoberfest, but have you heard of Starkbierzeit? It's German for “strong beer season,” a mini-beer festival held every March in Munich. For two weeks (March 4-20, 2005), Münchners take a break from Lenten self-denial, and breweries bring out their most potent beverages. Beer halls celebrate with traditional food and entertainment during this popular event, which locals call the “fifth season.”

The festival goes back to the Paulaner monks who, according to legend, began brewing an extra-strength beer to sustain their strength during Lent, when church rules forbade them to eat between meals. Their beer, first brewed in the 17th century, went by a number of colorful names, including “liquid bread,” “holy father oil,” and “gentleman's beer.” It gained a word-of-mouth following among locals, and eventually became known as Salvator.

Salvator got a big boost from Napoleon who, after conquering Bavaria, sold church-owned property, including the Paulaner monastery, to local businessmen. The monastery ended up in the hands of Franz Xavier Zacherl, who turned it into a beer hall and started mass-producing the monks' beer. Zacherl offered Salvator to the public, shrewdly promoting it as a cure for the wintertime blues. Münchners answered the call, descending on his beer hall in droves.

A typical Bavarian snack

Salvator is classified as a Doppelbock, which means an extra-strength version of the Bock style. “Bock” in Germany, is a generic term meaning strong beer. Just how strong are Doppelbocks? They start at 7.5 percent alcohol by volume. And because their strength is concealed by a strong malty flavor, they can sneak up on even experienced drinkers.

Munich's other breweries soon followed Paulaner's lead and brought out their own versions of Doppelbock. But as a tribute to the original Salvator, they gave their versions names ending in “-ator.” This tradition is still followed in Germany, and has spread to craft breweries in America.

The first day of Starkbierzeit is Bavaria's answer to baseball's Opening Day. The keg-tapping ceremonies are attended by a star-studded audience, which drinks fresh Salvator while laughing along with comedians poking fun at German politicians. Local television stations broadcast the festivities, and most of Bavaria tunes in.

The most famous Starkbierzeit address is Paulaner Keller (Hochstrasse 77), which was built on the site of Zackerl's beer hall. Because it stands on the Nockherberg, the highest point in the city, locals who attend the festivities say they're answering “the call of the mountain.” The beer hall was badly damaged by a fire in 2000, but last year its owners put the finishing touches on a brand-new facility in time for Starkbierzeit.