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A Weekend on the Outer Banks


It’s a rugged, beautiful and lonely land. The Outer Banks are a string of narrow barrier islands sheltering North Carolina’s mainland coast. For thousands of years, they have acted as a natural buffer zone between the ravaging Atlantic and shallow offshore sounds.

Windswept dunes and sandy beaches mix with fertile marshes and tranquil woodlands. Here, the warm waters of the Gulf Stream merge with the cooler Labrador currents, creating a home for a wide variety of rare plants and animals. The pristine Outer Banks are a nesting area for terns, American Oystercatchers and Black Skimmers. Shy Sea Turtles crawl up from the surf to lay eggs on its sun-warmed beaches. And if you’re lucky, you can even catch a glimpse of wild horses roaming about the Northern Shores.

The treacherous waters off the Outer Banks have been dubbed the Graveyard of the Atlantic, entombing about 2,000 vessels — one of the highest concentrations of shipwrecks in the world. Many a desperate seaman has lost his fight not only against the angry sea, but also against forces of war and piracy.

Long stretches of these fragile ribbons of sand have been placed under federal protection to preserve natural and cultural resources. The Outer Banks are host to two National Seashores: Cape Hatteras and remote Cape Lookout, further to the south and reachable only by boat or ferry.

Communities are sprinkled throughout this curving arch of islands. It is a bustling and well-developed commercial hub. It was here that Orville and Wilbur Wright flew the world’s first motorized airplane in 1903. The 60-foot (18 m) Wright Brothers National Memorial, crowning a 90-foot (27 m) dune of shifting sand that has been stabilized with grass, proudly towers over the town.

But the roots of history run much deeper here. It was on neighboring Roanoke Island that Sir Walter Raleigh established a military settlement in April 1585 — the first British Colony in the New World.

You’ll find much more to discover on the Outer Banks than just wide sandy beaches. Take a trip to where land and water rendezvous, where the history of the United States began and the future of air travel started.

Outer Banks
With over 130 miles (209 km) of
unspoiled beaches, the Outer Banks is truly the natural choice for a great vacation.

Friday

Your best bet for accommodations is perhaps one of the many vacation homes or rental condos available. There are plenty of private cottages for rent on the beach where you can watch the sun sink into the ocean right from your wooden deck, where sea oats gently wave along the dunes and the sound of rolling waves will lull you to sleep. Contact the Outer Banks Visitor Bureau for a list of rental agencies or check out their website. They also provide info on Bed & Breakfasts, hotels and campgrounds.

Since this is your first day on the Outer Banks, you’ll probably want to head for the seashore. Try Coquina Beach, south of Nags Head. It’s less crowded than beaches close to residential areas. Pack a picnic lunch and go for a swim in the clean, blue water. Curl up with a good book. Take a walk along the beach. Watch a band of brown pelicans fly closely above the water’s surface, the tips of their wings almost touching the waves. Go beachcombing or just relax.

Try dinner at the Windmill Point (U.S. Highway 158 Bypass Milepost 16.5, Nags Head; 252-441-1535). Overlooking tranquil Roanoke Sound, the restaurant serves a large selection of outstanding dishes for seafood lovers. Have an aperitif before your meal at their quaint S.S. United States Lounge upstairs decorated with memorabilia from the luxurious cruise liner.

Saturday

The Wright Brothers National Monument (U.S. Highway 158 Bypass between Mileposts 7 and 8, Kill Devil Hills; 252-441-7430) is a site definitely not to be missed. Start at the Visitor Center with the exhibits of a full-scale reproduction of the 1902 glider and the 1903 flying machine. These explain the events leading to the first flight. Numbered markers point out the spots where the first airplane left the ground and landed. Some people fly brightly colored kites or model airplanes by the granite Memorial on top of grassy Kill Devil Hill — a beautiful sight the Wright brothers surely would have liked.

Nearby Jockey’s Ridge (U.S. Highway 158 Bypass near Milepost 12, Nags Head; 252-441-7132) is the tallest natural sand dune system in the Eastern United States. It was preserved as a state park in 1975.

Soft sands and year-round winds allowed the Wright brothers to make the dream of aviation come true on the Outer Banks. Today, you can fly the same skies as the famous pilots. Kitty Hawk Kites (1-877-FLY-THIS or 252-441-4124) offers a three-hour beginner hang gliding lesson on the dunes. They also offer many more flight-related activities such as parasailing, ultralight lessons, seaplane tours or kite boarding.

You must be hungry by now, so head for Jockey’s Ribs (252-441-1141), the casual restaurant with the funny name, just across the street from the state park. They serve up spicy barbeque, steak, chicken and fresh local seafood for lunch.



Continued: A Weekend in the Outer Banks, North Carolina
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