Beyond Beantown
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Beyond Beantown
Boston is a great place to
take the family
By J.L. Graber
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Boston Duck Tours
uses refurbished WWII
amphibious landing vehicles. They drive through the
streets of Boston and then cruise up the Charles River.
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“Cover your ears,” the man
advised. “This is going to be loud.”
He wasn’t joking. Thunder boomed across the room as three single beams of light
stretched toward the ceiling and zapped three huge balls of foil. The air filled
with the strange smell of ozone, and the crowd seemed stunned. Then they began
to cheer, and several young viewers jumped up and down with delight, my children
included.
It was just the kind of
response that the innovative Museum of Science was hoping for. The simulated
lightning demonstration had brought science to life.
It’s not often that a
destination delights both youngsters and
their parents, but Boston fits the bill. This city of 600,000, located on
America’s east coast, some 245 miles (368 km) north of New York City, is rich in
history and cultural attractions. The Museum of Science is just one of the
dozens of places here that entertain as well as educate young and old alike.
There is one thing you
should know, however, before you start planning your family trek to Beantown, as
Boston is often called: Traffic in Boston is horrible. The town is in the midst
of The Big Dig, a massive transportation project, and trying to navigate your
way through the already congested streets with arguing kids in the backseat is
not fun. Trust me on this.
My advice? Ditch the
rental car (or don’t rent one except on the days you want to see sites outside
of town) and take the public transportation system. The “T” (subway system) and
buses are clean, efficient and easy to use.
Your best bet is to get a
MBTA Visitor Pass. This pass, bought in 1-day or 3-day segments, entitles you to
unlimited travel on the public transit system, including buses, harbor ferries
and subways. You can purchase the pass at the airport subway station or at the
Greater Boston Convention and Visitors Bureau office. An unlimited 3-day pass
costs US$ 18. Be sure to pick up a good walking map while you’re there, because
most of the town’s most famous sites are best viewed on foot.
If you’re going to do some
sightseeing, consider buying either the Boston CityPass or the Go Boston Card.
The CityPass allows you to choose six of the city’s most popular attractions for
$34 (kids 17 and under are $19.50), and is good for 9 days. Since regular
admissions would cost around twice that amount, the pass is a good value.
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For over a century,
visitors have enjoyed the
Swan Boats in Boston's Public Garden. |
The Go Boston Card is an
unlimited sightseeing pass which can be purchased in 1, 2, 3 or 5-day durations.
It gives you access to 50 of the city’s popular attractions (over $350.00 in
admissions value) for one price. A 1-day pass is $45 for adults and $25 for
children ages 3-12.
Now that you’re armed with
these easy-to-use passes, the question is where to go first.
Many American children
know Boston from the beloved children’s book,
Make Way for Ducklings by Robert
McCloskey. The tale is about a family of ducks who live in Boston’s Public
Garden, so the Garden was the very first thing our kids wanted to see.
Established in 1837, the
Public Garden is the oldest public botanical garden in the country. But our kids
weren’t impressed by that, or even by the gorgeous flowers and lush green trees.
They were there for a ride on the Swan Boats and to see the famous duckling
statues.
For $2.50 each, we boarded
a swan paddleboat and were treated to a delightful tour of the lake. The Paget
family has been operating the boats for more than a century, and they aren’t
about to change anything now. And why should they? From the line we saw, it’s
obviously a favorite Boston pastime, along with the line of duckling statues at
the very front of the park.
Speaking of winged fowl,
Boston Duck Tours offers one of the best ways for kids and their parents to tour
Beantown. In what other tour can you drive a huge military vehicle through town
and then turn into the Charles River for a tour from the water?
The tour company uses
refurbished WWII amphibious landing vehicles, and they are a huge hit with kids.
Sure, the boats make look a little silly, but the Duck Tour drivers are
knowledgeable and funny—a good combination if you’re 10 and being driven around
to see historical sites that will, no doubt, show up on one of your history
tests one day.
Guests under 12 are often
allowed to “drive” while the boat is in the river, and our 6-year-old proudly
steered the “duck” down the Charles River in a ride we will never forget.
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Driving into the
Charles River
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Yet the Duck Boat Tour
still didn’t answer the one burning question we had been mulling over all week:
Why exactly was Boston nicknamed “Beantown?”
We finally learned the
answer at Durgin-Park, a historic restaurant which claims that it was
established “long before you were born.”
This local establishment serves up
affordable, hearty portions (kids can get half-portions) of classic New England
favorites such as clam chowder and fish cakes, but they are most famous for
their Boston Baked Beans.
This, we were told by a
weathered waitress with a thick Boston accent, was the dish that put Boston—er,
rather its cuisine—on the map. Once a regular Saturday night supper in many
local homes, Boston Baked Beans are still a favorite dish. Folks around here get
mighty picky as to what constitutes “true” Boston Baked Beans, a dish comprised
of navy beans, salt pork and molasses, and Durgin-Park claims to have the real
thing.
While legumes are nice, we
preferred another Boston favorite—seafood.
You can’t walk five
minutes in downtown Boston without running into some kind of good restaurant.
And while every kind of cuisine is represented here in Beantown (large numbers
of Irish, Portuguese and Italians immigrants settled in Boston), our land-locked
family was on a quest for seafood. In fact, discovering excellent seafood
restaurants soon became one of our favorite Boston activities.
We found several places
that catered both to children and parents (see our restaurant listing below),
but our favorite find was the Union Oyster House, which specializes in
Yankee-style seafood and lobster.
Established back in 1826,
the Union Oyster House claims to be America’s oldest continually-operating
restaurant. It certainly looks authentic, with dark, hand-hewn rafters and an
English-style pub atmosphere. The place is filled with the happy sounds of
conversation and the rich smell of lobster
cooked a half a dozen ways.
With its central location
near Faneuil Hall (more on that later), the restaurant is popular with tourists,
but locals like it just as much. The restaurant was a favorite hangout for
former President John F. Kennedy before he took up residence in the White House.
We were lucky enough to
sit in booth #18, the former president’s favorite spot. I couldn’t help but run
my hand over the table, worn and dinged-up over the years, and wonder about this
man who died before I was even born, yet whose legacy is still treasured here in
New England.
Boston also treasures its
seafaring tradition, so it’s only natural that they should have one of the
country’s top aquariums. We chose to visit the New England Aquarium on the one
rainy day we had during our visit, and it was the perfect salve to gray weather.
(There’s no easy way to say this: Boston can be really COLD in the winter, but
it’s gorgeous in the spring, summer and fall.)
While the rain pounded
outside, we held horseshoe crabs and starfish and ogled over sharks and turtles
and hundreds of other creatures in the huge ocean tank.
But the best part of
Boston is its history: this is one of the places where America—the idea of it,
anyway—was conceived and created.
Settled by British
colonists well over two centuries ago, the local mood soon turned to
independence. Bostonians had minds of their own (some things haven’t changed),
and decided that Britain should leave them alone.
When the British
government taxed the colonists and their tea, Bostonians dumped that tea during
the infamous Boston Tea Party. That was only the beginning, though. The Rebels
envisioned a land of their own, a dream that ultimately paid off. They planned
their fight with the British from right here in Boston.
To share this exciting
period of American history with our kids, we spent a day following the Freedom
Trail. This 2.5 mile red brick trail weaves through Boston past 16 important
historic sites, including the Granary Burying Ground, where Paul Revere, Samuel
Adams and John Hancock are buried, the Old South Meeting House and Bunker Hill.
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Built as a market in
1713, Faneuil Hall was a meeting place
for the Rebels fighting for American Independence. |
Our favorite stop was the
Old State House, where the Declaration of Independence was first read from the
balcony. Built in 1713, it’s now a museum that offers several films and
interactive exhibits. (Strangely enough, there is also a train station in the
lowest level of the building, and every so often, the walls rumble.)
Another point along the
path is Faneuil Hall. Built as a market in 1742, the Rebels often met here to
plan their war. Today, the hall is overflowing with food stalls, restaurants and
little shops. The square out front seems to be a favorite place for impromptu
street performers.
But as much as there is to
do in downtown Boston, you’d be missing out if you didn’t take your family on a
side trip to Plymouth, Massachusetts, just outside of Boston.
This is the town Americans
remember from third-grade history class. It was here that the Pilgrims first
stepped foot on Plymouth Rock, and where they fought to survive those first cold
winters and then later celebrated the harvest with the Native Americans in a
feast we now know as Thanksgiving.
Visiting Plymouth feels
like stepping into the past. While Boston has grown up into an ever-pulsing
metropolitan city, Plymouth still remains a slow-paced village, with small-town
streets and a small-town feel. Classic New England homes with wood-shingled
sides and angular roofs line the unhurried streets, and fishing boats are
anchored in the coves.
Located 45 miles (72 km)
from Boston on the shores of Cape Cod, the main attractions in this town are
Plimoth Plantation and the Mayflower II. These well-run living history museums
(part of the same organization) immerse visitors into the past. We visited a
full working pilgrim settlement, where we chatted with a “pilgrim” who was
working in his field, and met several others who were cooking or gardening in
their homes. At the Native American village, we watched a young man fish and
learned all about their daily lives.
From there, we went to the
Mayflower II, a replica of the tiny ship that brought the Pilgrims from England to
America. We spent over an hour talking with the “crew and passengers.” It made
for an educational and entertaining day.
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Wampanoag men at
Plimoth Plantation,
a living history museum in Plymouth,
45 miles from Boston |
And yes, you can still
view the famous Plymouth Rock here in Plymouth, where the pilgrims allegedly
first stepped foot on North America—but don’t expect much.
“Is that it?” my oldest
queried as we stared at the small boulder encased under a protective monument.
Sure enough, the rock isn’t very impressive, but it’s the idea that counts.
After all, this nation didn’t look like much back during those times, either.
But there is more to
Plymouth than historical sites. Our two youngest took up piracy on the Pirate
Adventure offered in Cape Cod. Young guests are given proper pirate ware and
then go out on a quest for the treasure. My favorite stop, though, was for ice
cream and a live demonstration at the historical Jenny Grist Mill. I guess we
all have our vices.
By the time we had
finished enjoying Plymouth, our vacation time had run out. Fortunately, there is
more to do in the Boston area than a family could ever do in one visit. That
leaves us a reason to go back, which I’m sure we will.
If You Go
Boston Tourism
www.bostonusa.com
Plymouth County
www.seeplymouth.com
Boston for Families,
by Kim Foley MacKinnon, 2004, available at
www.booklocker.com
Boston CityPass
www.BostonUSA.com
Go Boston Card
www.gobostoncard.com
Where
to Stay
Right across from Boston’s
Public Garden, the Four Seasons Hotel Boston
is both a classy establishment and a place where kids can feel at home (often a
rare combination). Children receive a warm welcome and their needs are taken
into consideration—the Four Seasons even offers children’s movies, board games
and plush robes just their size. The hotel has a brochure listing their
offerings for kids (from oreo cookies and milk to strollers), as well as some of
their favorite kid-friendly Boston attractions. There are ongoing family travel
packages available, as well as a few romantic getaway options for weary parents
who need a break.
200 Boylston Street
617-338-4400
www.fourseasons.com
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Bike riding along the
Charles River near the Royal Sonesta |
The
Royal Sonesta has a gorgeous location
right on the Charles River, with views of the Boston Skyline and Historic Beacon
Hill. It’s also right across from the Museum of Science.
This lovely hotel celebrates the 20th Annual Summerfest by offering
complimentary bike rentals, free scenic boat rides down the Charles River and
courtesy van service to shopping districts.
5 Cambridge Parkway
Cambridge
617-806-4200
800-SONESTA
www.sonesta.com/boston
If you have a car and want
to stay a bit outside of all the hubbub downtown, check out the
Hotel Tria. This affordable small
hotel has newly renovated boutique-style plush rooms, an indoor pool and offers
free breakfast. Located 4.5 miles from downtown near Harvard Square.
200 Alewife Brook Parkway
Cambridge, MA
617-491-8000
866-333-TRIA
www.hoteltria.com
The only hotel located
right on the sandy beaches of Cape Cod in Plymouth, the
Plymouth Sands motel is a nice base
to explore the town of the American Pilgrim heritage. Although it’s not fancy,
the motel is comfortable, the views are excellent and the staff is friendly.
Kids will love the two pools and exploring the beach.
150 Warren Ave.
Plymouth, MA
800-729-SANDS
www.pilgrimsands.com
Things
to See
Museum of Science
Science Park
617-723-2500
www.mos.org
Boston Duck Tours
Call 617-723-DUCK for
locations
www.bostonducktours.com
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A Wamponoag woman
gathers mussels at Plimoth Plantation, a living history museum in
Plymouth. |
New England Aquarium
On Central Wharf
617-973-5200
www.neaq.org
Plimoth Plantation (and
the Mayflower)
Plymouth, MA.
508 746-1622
www.plimoth.org
Pirate Cruise
Town Wharf
Plymouth, MA
508-746-5342
www.piratefun.com
Where
to Eat
Union
Oyster House
Even though the Union
Oyster House is a tourist draw due to its location near Faneuil Hall, it’s a
“must visit.” A favorite with JFK, it is America’s oldest continuously running
restaurant, established in 1826. It was designated a National Historic Landmark
in 2003.
41 Union Street
617-227-2750
www.unionoysterhouse.com
Upstairs on the Square
Probably one of the
quirkiest and most unique kid-family friendly restaurants in the region is
Upstairs on the Square, which is actually across the river in Cambridge on
Harvard Square (named for the famous school, of course.) The restaurant makes
the best Shirley Temples in town, with licorice, candied fruits and a
sugar-dipped glass. The chic designs are a throwback to 1940s glamour, with
bright purple and pink walls.
81 Winthrop Street
617-864-1933
www.upstairsonthesquare.com
Durgin-Park
This classic New England
seafood restaurant boasts that it was established long before you were born.
Owned and run by the Kelley family, the restaurant prides itself on offering
affordable, hearty portions of classic New England favorites, including Boston
Baked Beans and lobster.
340 North
Market St
Faneuil Hall
617-766-6528
www.durgin-park.com
Skipjacks
This funky seafood
establishment has a 3-D menu for kids. What could make seafood more fun than
that? It also has plenty of tasty cuisine for mom and dad at affordable prices.
199 Clarendon Street
617-536-3500
Les
Zygomates Wine Bar & Bistro
Sometimes even parents
need some time on their own. Find a local babysitter, order in some pizza for
the kids and head to Les Zygomates, a jazz club and restaurant. You can enjoy a
romantic dinner in the dining room and then enjoy a cocktail on the jazz side.
129 South Street
617-542-5108
www.winebar.com
