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Town-Hopping in
Eastern Germany
Once under the grip of communism, this region has come into its own
By
Janna Graber |
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The sun sets behind Castle Schönburg, which overlooks
the lush wine-growing region of Salle-Unstrut. |
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When the Berlin Wall fell in November 1989, it opened
many opportunities for the East German people, and it reintroduced the
world to Eastern Germany.
During the decades when borders and barbed wire cut
off this country from the west, many forgot about the beautiful things
behind the Wall — vibrant towns, world-class vineyards, important pieces
of musical and religious heritage, and a thriving, rich culture.
Now, these communities, once closed to western
visitors, are eager for the world to rediscover them.
The years under communism admittedly took their toll.
Without money for development, many regions fell into disrepair. But there
was a silver lining: while Western Germany modernized, knocking down old
buildings to build newer ones, Eastern Germany had to make do with what it
had.
The result? Eastern Germany has preserved more of its
architectural heritage. Buildings from centuries ago still line the
streets, and with the German government's aggressive restoration program
now in place, these structures are being brought back to original
condition.
Ironically, Eastern Germany has leapt ahead of its
western counterpart in many other areas. The latest in digital technology
has been installed, chic new hotels are springing up, and town planners
are busy revitalizing their communities.
And Eastern Germany is often more affordable than the
usual draws in the western part of the country.
Unfortunately, unemployment is a constant reality in
Eastern Germany; some towns fight 25 percent unemployment rates. But small businesses are bubbling up all across the
region, and vendors here seem eager to please.
There is much to see in Eastern Germany, but here are
a few special towns that are well worth the visit. These communities are
within hours of each other by train, making it simple to town-hop across
this vibrant part of Germany.
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Martin Luther translated the New Testament at Wartburg Castle in the 16th Century. The castle is Eisenach's main tourist attraction.
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Eisenach
It's 90 minutes by train from the Frankfurt airport,
but it’s a world apart. Founded in the 12th century, this slow-paced town
has a population of just 44,000, yet its residents have made a huge impact
on the world.
It was here that Martin Luther preached and
translated the New Testament while living at Wartburg Castle, which was
founded in 1067. Even today, the castle remains the town's showpiece,
sitting atop a hill.
Those interested in Luther’s life and work will be
pleased with the comprehensive Luther House, located in one of the oldest
half-timbered homes in town.
Not content with helping change the course of
Christianity, Eisenach produced another master, Johann Sebastian Bach, who
was born here in 1685. The Bachs were well-known about town, as Johann and
other members of the family sang in St. George’s Evangelical Lutheran
Church.
The family home, The Bach House, has an impressive
collection of instruments and Bach history. But the most enjoyable
experience at Bach House is listening to Herr Meissner, a local musician
who was not allowed to study music until after the wall fell, play Bach's
work on the original instruments. Meissner’s passion for Bach's work is
contagious.
Eisenach is by no means stuck in the past, however.
For the last century, the town has carried a proud automotive
manufacturing tradition, and recently it became home to one of the most
modern car factories in Europe — Opel, now owned by General Motors.
For those who enjoy the outdoors, Eisenach has built
more than 150 miles (240 km) of hiking paths. One high-level path, the
Rennsteig, starts in Eisenach and runs through the Thuringian Forest
Mountain range.
Weimar
It is hard to fall from prominence, and even harder
to claw your way back up to it.
Back in 1775, Weimar gave birth to German
Intellectualism, with the likes of Goethe, Schiller, Nietzsche and Liszt
calling the small city home. It was an exciting time for this region. In
1919, the Weimar Republic and constitution were formed here.
But the decades that followed were filled with evil
and sorrow. Nazi Germany dug its claws into the community, building
Buchenwald, a concentration camp, just a short walk from the homes of
poets and writers. The Russians later turned Buchenwald into a prison
camp, and during the Communist years that followed, little was done to
help Weimar up from its knees.
But when the wall fell, Weimar seemed to find itself
once again. Gradually, intellectual and artistic expression seeped back
into its rightful place in the city.
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Weimar, once home of Goethe, Schiller and Nietzsche, fell on hard times during the reign of Hitler's National Socialist Party in the 1930s and communism after the end of WWII. Today, the town is again an attractive cultural center. |
That lively spirit is felt on the streets of the
city. The attractive Schiller Street, a pedestrian shopping zone, and the
market in the town square bustle with activity. The local theater, which
was used by the Nazis as an armament factory, has been reclaimed for the
town’s 400-year-old orchestra. Art galleries and museums now dot the
avenues, as do restaurants and pubs. (The microbrewery Kostritzer
Schwarzbierhaus is excellent.)
All of this dedicated work has paid off: In 1999,
Weimar was named the European City of Culture.
Naumburg
The tiny town of Naumburg claims it once was “where
the heart of Germany beats in the Middle Ages.” Perhaps that assertion is
true. The 1,000-year-old village is comfortable mixing today’s world of
the Internet and cable TV with buildings that once housed knights and
princesses.
It's easy to imagine those knights at The Burgschänke
Tavern at the Castle Schönburg, which sits high above the Saale River
overlooking the lush wine-growing region of Salle-Unstrut. Dinner here is
often served “medieval” style, using no utensils and roughly hewn plates.
Best of all, the food is served with the region's excellent wines — dry
whites, hearty reds and even a local sparkling wine.
The surrounding regions have produced wines for more
than 900 years (several vineyards have been in the same family for more
than a century). However, during Communist times, most vineyards were
forced to sell to government cooperatives. Fast forward 12 years, and the
area wineries are back on their own again, building up a small but
thriving industry. Many wineries welcome visitors.
Leipzig
Just arriving at Leipzig train station is an
experience. The new facility, designed after Paddington Station in London,
is the biggest rail station in Europe. Not only that, it’s a huge shopping
mall.
It's no surprise that Leipzig offers such a modern
welcome. More than 25 percent of the town was destroyed in World War II,
and much of it is just now being rebuilt. It’s not uncommon to see empty
buildings with broken windows standing next to expensively restored
structures.
The city’s current renaissance is summed up in the
town’s slogan: “Leipzig kommt!” which means “Leipzig is coming.” Given
another few years, Leipzig’s current renaissance should have restored the
city to top condition.
The current atmosphere is lively and upbeat, and busy
coffeehouses, bars and a thriving nightlife help entertain the city’s
youthful population. “This is a young town,” says Romy Simon, one of the
many residents who are not old enough to remember much of Leipzig during
Communist days.
Back then, the city was gray and dirty, due to
pollution from open cast mining and other factories. Those industries have
all been shut down now. Downtown Leipzig is not hard to traverse by foot,
and one could easily spend days exploring all it has to offer.
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Leipzig is a youthful and energetic town. Here, a vendor sells hot dogs using a unique portable stand. |
But the one thing that stands out most about Leipzig
is its role in the “Peaceful Revolution.” With a population of 500,000,
this is where some committed souls began to pray for the fall of East
German government.
In 1982, a small group of people began gathering at
St. Nikolas Cchurch to pray for peace. The group began to grow, with
non-Christians and Christians alike attending and pushing for change in
East Germany. By 1989, peaceful protests had sprung up all across the
country. Thousands came to pray at the church. Police tried shutting down
services, but the numbers grew.
Finally, on Oct. 9, 1989, some 1,000 Communist party
members and Secret Police were ordered to fill up the church, hoping to
keep others out. But the church service was held as usual.
That night, thousands of marchers walked through the
city carrying candles, singing songs and calling for change. They stopped
at the headquarters of the Secret Police, which they were able to take
over peacefully.
Weeks later, the government crumbled. And not one
shot was fired.
Leipzig has dozens of top museums, including the
Mendelssohn House, but by far the most interesting is the Stasi Museum,
located in the former headquarters of the secret police. Much of the
former police headquarters has been left as it was in October 1989, with
rooms showing how secret police spied on others, interrogated and held
dissenters, went through mail, eavesdropped on phone conversations and
recruited followers.
The museum provides a fascinating look at the East
Germany that once was.
If You Go
Germany Tourism
www.germany-tourism.de
Tourism Eisenach
www.eisenach-tourist.de
City of Weimar
www.weimar.de
City of Leipzig
www.leipzig.de
City of Naumburg
www.naumburg-tourismus.de
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