Royal, sapphire, cobalt, turquoise … nowhere else in Corsica is this kaleidoscope of colors more evident than in the Straits of Bonifacio, the windswept waterway that separates the southernmost tip of the island from the coast of Sardinia.
Built atop of towering limestone cliffs and surrounded by the Mediterranean on three sides, the town of Bonifacio offers spectacular panoramas, hikes along the coast, boat rides, historical monuments and great dining, all within walking distance of a medieval fairy tale–like village. Bonifacio’s harbor, lined with a string of hotels, cafes and restaurants, is the ideal spot to begin an exploration of this intriguing place.
At the tiny grocery store next to our hotel, my sister Marcia and I buy warm chocolate croissants, fresh cheese made from ewe’s milk, thin slices of cured ham, a loaf of bread and two bottles of water. With our daypacks loaded, we climb aboard a tour boat to explore the nearby Lavezzi Islands, a protected natural reserve and part of an international marine park jointly shared by Italy and France.
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The entrance to the cave Sdragonatu (little dragon) resembles the shape of Corsica. |
The boat tours leave in the morning and drop off tourists at the reserve, returning later in the day to take them back to Bonifacio.
On these uninhabited islands, visitors can bathe in secluded coves with white sandy beaches teeming with sea anemones and tiny fish.
The return trip to Bonifacio includes a visit to several inlets and caves carved by the sea and accessible only by boat. The most striking cave is Sdragonatto (little dragon), with its narrow entrance that, curiously, resembles the shape of Corsica.
The city of Bonifacio is split into two levels: the harbor and the old town, or Upper Ville (Upper Town).
A steep climb from the harbor via the steps of Montée Rastello leads to a lookout point, and one of the most stunning views in the Mediterranean: the island of Sardinia on the horizon, just 11 km (7 miles) to the south and the emerald waters of Sutta Rocca Beach below, adorned by the Grain de Sable (Grain of Sand), a massive rock fallen from the cliffside that sits in the ocean, and one of the most-photographed natural wonders in Corsica.
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Continuing our ascent to the Upper Town, we reach the drawbridge that leads to the entrance of the fortified Haute Ville. To cross over the drawbridge that guarded the only entrance to this ancient city until 1854 is to journey into Corsica’s medieval past. Named after Count Bonifacio of Tuscany in AD 828, the city was coveted for centuries by Genoa and Pisa for its strategic location and naturally protected port.
In the 12th century, the Genoese drove out Bonifacio’s inhabitants and established it as a colony of Genoa, ruling over much of the island through most of the 18th century.
The Genoese strengthened the Upper Town with fortifications on all sides, and in times of battle, the city’s inhabitants would raise the drawbridge and lock themselves inside the village to protect themselves from invaders. After years of attempts at independence, Corsica was sold to France, and was defeated by France’s army in 1769.
Bonifacio’s old town is perfect for wandering through its maze of cobblestone streets; admiring the mixed architecture of its homes; and visiting centuries-old churches, tiny boutiques and cafes. You can walk through a tunnel, built inside the fortified walls surrounding the town, which offers great views of the marina and the sea from several windows.
Near the church of St. Dominique, an open-air market gathers every Wednesday, featuring crafts, clothes, souvenirs and local food: fresh produce, cheese, charcuterie, fruit preserves and a variety of honeys perfumed with a mix of indigenous herbs, including myrtle, rosemary, thyme, juniper and other endemic plants knows as maquis. For this reason the honeys of Corsica can be simultaneously sweet and bitter.
Continued: Bonifacio: Corsica’s Gibraltar 1 |2 |Next
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