It’s 5 a.m. and the sun is just beginning to glint off the frothy Pacific waves. From my hotel I watch thrill-seekers wander down to the beach to engage in what indigenous residents of this island referred to as he‘e nalu, or wave riding. Today it is better known as surfing.

Gliding toward the shore on a breaking wave originated in prehistoric times in Polynesia and spread throughout the South Seas. Captain James Cook is believed to be the first European to witness the sport on this island in the late 1770s. Here, the powerful crashing surf can create wave faces of over 20 feet (6 m). No wonder surfing flourished on this shoreline beginning in the 20th century.

This early in the day the air is still fresh, scented with the sweet aroma of bougainvilleas and hibiscus, the official state flower. The morning is too beautiful to stay inside. I walk down the palm tree–lined street in this neighborhood where paradise has been infiltrated by a booming tourist industry. In the alleys between the hectic streets, vendors are busy setting up booths to sell their wares to the many vacationers. Some of the goods, brightly hued shell jewelry and dresses, convey the colorful spirit of this island, while other items, such as handcrafted wood carvings of Polynesian gods, bring the native history and mythology to life.

Before development, springs, streams and other wetlands naturally separated this section of the island from the interior, creating a private paradise. This area, whose name translates to “spouting water,” was a retreat for local royalty then. I follow the two-mile (3.22 km) walking tour near the beach where bronze trail markers cast in the shape of surfboards indicate past residences of kings, queens and other sovereigns.

As I come upon an open-air market, I take a moment to select some coconut-sized avocados, picked fresh from the trees this morning. I also stock up on papaya and a freshly harvested hala kahiki (the native word for pineapple), regarded locally as the symbol of hospitality and peace.

Where am I?
Send your answer to goworld@goworldpublishing.com. The first reader correctly identifying this island and country will be entered in a drawing to receive a recently published travel book.

Who’s watching whom? A curious polar bear checks out tourists aboard a tundra buggy.

Answer to the December 2006 “Where in the World” Contest

Last month’s mystery destination was Churchill, Manitoba (Canada).

Our photo showed a polar bear approaching a tundra buggy, a military truck modified to serve as a comfortable safari vehicle to explore this frozen world.

Thanks to all who wrote in their guesses. This month’s winner is Jacqueline from North Vancouver, B.C. Congratulations, Jacqueline!