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Freighter to Paradise: Cruising French Polynesia
Wooden whaling boats transport guests from land to the Aranui III.


B
rilliant streaks of gold burst through the fluffy clouds and illuminated a line of coconut palms, which assured early risers on the Aranui III that we were nearing Fakarava, the second-largest Tuamotu atoll and the first stop of our journey through the exotic isles of French Polynesia. This was just the beginning of a 14-day, island-hopping trek through the fabled Tuamotu and Marquesas archipelagoes of the South Pacific, aboard the passenger freighter Aranui III.

The 386-foot (118 m), 207-passenger vessel was custom built to serve the tiny ports it visits, bringing goods to French Polynesia islanders. While the true business of the Aranui III is to haul much-needed freight to and from the picturesque isles, thanks to a unique design, the ship provides visitors with a chance to be a part of a working vessel, in a graceful style. Most passenger cabins have windows.

The vessel has an outdoor swimming pool, as well as a lounge, gym and library. Passengers can take part in fishing and snorkeling, and guest lecturers and onboard experts offer detailed information about the culture and history of the Marquesas ports, and Polynesia in general.

The largest tikis in the Pacific can be found on Hiva Oa.
The largest tikis in the Pacific can be found on Hiva Oa.

Dawn was breaking over the Fakarava atoll as we steamed into the inner lagoon through a wide cut in the reef at our first, brief stop of a journey that would eventually crisscross an area roughly the size of Western Europe.

We anchored in a crystal-clear, turquoise-colored lagoon several hundred yards from a white, coral sand beach before going ashore in wooden whaling boats.

Fakarava is the commercial center of the Tuamotu group of about 80 coral isles. Friendly native merchants had “set up shop” under the shade of coconut palms near the beach, and displayed their creations made of wood, shells, bone and black pearls.

Many of the passengers browsed the merchandise, while others snorkeled or swam around coral formations in the warm, clear waters of the huge lagoon. A picnic lunch of local fish was served under a thatched canopy, accompanied by island music provided by a ukulele band. After exploring, swimming, or resting in the shade, it was into the whaling boats and back to the ship.

The anchor was lifted, and we began the longest stretch of the journey at sea. We would see nothing but wide-open seas and miles of blue water for the rest of the day, the night, the next day and another night. Then, at daybreak, we witnessed the sun coming up over Ua Pou, the first of the 12 volcanic Marquesas islands we would encounter.

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The majestic island has a dramatic skyline of obelisk-shaped columns, jagged cliffs and cathedral-like spires. The contrasts of the blue ocean, the brilliant greens of the island and the towering peaks that encircle Hakahau Bay were spellbinding.

From Ua Pou, we went to Nuku Hiva, the administrative capital and the largest island in the chain. There, near the deep bay of Taipivai, Herman Melville was inspired to write his famous Typee, in 1842. For the passengers on the Aranui III, it was a chance to do some banking, use a very slow Internet system, or sit back and watch the precision of the ship’s crew loading and unloading much-needed freight for the island people.

The next stop of our expedition brought us to Hiva Oa, the final resting place of artist Paul Gauguin and Belgian singer Jacques Brel. Though buried 75 years apart, both of these men spent the last few years of their lives on Hiva Oa, and they are buried very close together in an old cemetery at Atuona, high above the pounding waves of the ocean.



Continued: Freighter to Paradise: Cruising French Polynesia
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