It’s been a good while since a broom was put to work in this pretty art nouveau villa. A third of the living-room floor is already covered knee-deep in sand. A miniature dune has formed in one corner. And every new desert storm blowing in through broken windows is piling on yet another layer. The sand is creeping higher and higher up the papered walls with fading flower print. How ironic, as this ghost town had its origins in legendary German cleanliness.
While neatly sweeping the tracks of the Deutsche Reichsbahn (German Imperial Railways) in April 1908, black employee Zacharias Lewala discovered a beautiful, sparkling stone. Dutifully, he handed the diamond over to his white supervisor, August Stauch. The enthusiastic hobby mineralogist did not hesitate to quickly acquire the mining rights for the area, and established headquarters on this windy hilltop.
However, Stauch’s fortune did not last; the German government became interested, and declared a 62-mile (100 km) wide coastal strip starting at 26 degrees south latitude down to the Oranje river estuary as Sperrgebiet, a restricted zone where only the Deutsche Kolonialgesellschaft für Südwest-Afrika (German Colonial Society for Southwest Africa) was permitted to search for the precious gems.
A primitive camp was erected here to shelter native workers. To keep the colonial bosses and their families happy, despite scorching temperatures and frequent sand storms, a number of elegant mansions were constructed, with most materials and furnishings shipped from Germany, such as claw-foot bathtubs, fine Meissner porcelain, fringed lamp shades and even pianos.
A veritable German village developed in this surreal environment. Encircled by dunes, this brave little outpost housing up to 400 German settlers and 1000 African workers boasted an elementary school, ice factory, power station, casino and a gymnasium, as well as a hospital with the first X-ray station in southern Africa. A narrow-gauge railway stop here connected the sandy settlement to the nearest proper town of Lüderitz, 10 miles (16 km) to the southeast.
More than a ton of diamonds were produced here, until 1914. When defeated Germany lost all her colonies after World War I, subsequent mining companies regarded the location as 95 percent exploited. Operations moved elsewhere. Diamond prices crashed. And the little village deteriorated, becoming a freight depot along the tracks. The hospital released its last patient in 1954. Two years later the last few families moved away. Since then, the Namib Desert has been busily claiming back its lost territory.
In 1980, a precursor of today’s owner, Namdeb Diamond Corporation, decided to fend off geological forces and save the art nouveau oasis as an open-air museum. Some of the buildings have already been restored. Original furniture was brought back. The super market was turned into a history museum, and ebony balls roll once again in the skittle alley (the sport from which bowling originated).
Where am I?
Send your answer to goworld@goworldpublishing.com. All readers correctly identifying this ghost town and country will be entered in a drawing to receive a recently published travel book.
Answer to the March 2007 “Where in the World” Contest:
Last month’s mystery destination was Chicago, Illinois. Our photo showed a section of this city’s impressive skyline, including the intricate steel roof of the Pritzker Pavilion, as well as skyscrapers One Prudential Plaza and Two Prudential Plaza.
Thanks to all who wrote in with their guesses. This month’s winner is Jennifer S. Congratulations, Jennifer! |