The polar bear is baring his terrible teeth. With fast strides — the animal is almost running — he is getting closer and closer. Nothing can stop this monstrous carnivore now. And only a few moments earlier he had looked so innocent and cute through my binoculars: shiny black beady eyes, a cuddly warm fur coat and adorably clumsy looking legs with oversized paws just like a stuffed children’s toy.

The white colossus is merely a few meters away from our tundra buggy, a modified military truck. All of a sudden this comfortable safari vehicle with its huge all-terrain wheels taller than a man, propane heating, viewing deck and pit toilet doesn’t seem the unconquerable fortress any more. Peering through the fogged-up windows, I feel trapped in a giant steel can, like a sardine in a tin. Do polar bears know how to work their pointy claws as can openers?

For no apparent reason the arctic predator suddenly stops its assault run and takes a leisurely stroll over the last few feet to our oasis of civilization in this frozen desert. He is standing on his hind legs now, nostrils flaring. All of the buggy passengers hold their breath collectively. The polar bear stretches out his long black tongue, snarls and starts to nibble at our rear tire. Finally I understand. Glistening wet and black after plunging through some mud puddles, the rubber tires must remind him of ringed seal. And it’s been a few months since this hungry creature has gotten the last bite of his favorite dish.

According to estimates, there are between 22,000 and 25,000 of the great white bears left worldwide. About 60 percent are home in this North American country. Beyond the Arctic Circle, ursus maritimus can hunt seals from floating sea ice year-round. But residents of this greater bay area, which regularly thaws in the summer, are forced to retreat to land when the ice breaks up. Here, the largest members of the bear family are on a meager diet until the bay finally freezes up again in the fall.

Besides Russia’s Wrangel Island and Kong Karls Land in Norway, this coastal area is considered one of the most important and largest polar bear nurseries. A large part of it was designated as a national park in 1996. A small community of about 963 people lives right within the breeding grounds — the perfect base camp to observe the otherwise elusive arctic mammals, when they congregate near town to wait for the ice to freeze up again. Perhaps much closer than you’ve ever wished for …

Where am I?

Send your answer to goworld@goworldpublishing.com. All readers correctly identifying this country and city will be entered in a drawing to receive a recently published travel book.

Outdoor sculpture is a common sight in Reykjavik.

Answer to the November 2006 “Where in the World” Contest

Last month’s mystery destination was Reykjavik, Iceland. Our photo showed sculptures outside The Pearl, one of Reykjavik’s architectural landmarks.

Thanks to all who wrote in their guesses. This month’s winner is Trevor Wright from Lincoln, Nebraska. Congratulations, Trevor!