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A Weekend In Estes Park, Colorado
Estes Park is Colorado’s eastern gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park.


Its breathtaking setting certainly deserves the title, but Estes Park is not really a park ― at least not in the typical sense of the word. In geologic lingo, “park” describes a glacially cut, level valley between mountain ranges. And this is exactly where this picturesque hamlet is located.

Estes Park, Colorado, is nestled in a high alpine valley on the eastern slopes of the Rocky Mountains, near 7,500 feet (2,200 m) elevation. Bald eagles soar in the usually blue skies above, and great herds of elk and bighorn sheep migrate across the region. In fact, the big animals often graze in and around town, much to the chagrin of local gardeners.

Surrounded by magnificent snow-capped peaks, this pristine glacial valley has been a vacation spot for generations. Unlike other Colorado mountain communities, however, Estes Park did not start out as a mining town. It was a favorite summer hunting ground for native Ute and Arapaho Indians when Kentuckian Joel Estes “discovered” this magnificent spot in mid-October 1859.

Estes Park Grazing Elk
It is not uncommon to see herds of
grazing elk all year long in Estes Park.

By the next summer, Estes had decided to make a living hunting, fishing and raising cattle in the area bearing his name today. Occasionally he would host early travelers who came to explore the rugged beauty of granite summits towering over forested valleys, twisted rivers and glistening lakes. And when Estes sold his homestead to Griffith Evans in 1867, the clever Welshman transformed the modest buildings into a dude ranch.

One of Evans’ guests, the Irish Earl of Dunraven, must have been quite taken by the area, because he subsequently bought most of the valley and operated it as a private game reserve, much to the dislike of the other settlers who had slowly moved in and accused the foreigner of “land grabbing.” Eventually Dunraven got tired of the constant squabble and sold most of his holdings. Having hosted his noble friends from back home, he can at least be given credit for making this gem of the Rockies the internationally renowned mountain destination that it remains today.

About 60 miles (96 km) northwest of Denver, Estes Park is the eastern gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park, 416 protected square miles (1077 km²) of some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the United States. More than three million visitors vacation here every year, and many choose Estes Park as their base camp on the way to the national park.

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Fall is the perfect time to visit. The busy days of summer are over, when the daily population swells to well over 50,000 in the popular Estes area, and when there are four visitors for every year-round resident. By the time the leaves have started to change, most tourists have gone.

A burlap bag is pulled over the lone downtown traffic light right after Labor Day, which is celebrated throughout the United States on the first Monday in September. This is the signal that the much-cherished off-season has finally begun. Aspen trees glow in brilliant colors, and calm and tranquility return to the valley. Autumn nights can get quite chilly here in the mountains, so pack a warm sweater. But summer still lingers during the day. This land of grandeur, with its silent forests, lively streams and waterfalls, great canyons, majestic peaks, ancient glaciers and an abundance of wildlife, are then all yours to enjoy without the crowds.

Friday

Historic Marys Lake Lodge (2625 Marys Lake Road, 970-586-5958; www.maryslakelodge.com) is an enchanted place to stay. The historic lodge has astounding views of crystal-clear Marys Lake and the Continental Divide, the rooftop of America, where melting snow flows southeast to the Gulf of Mexico or westward to the Pacific. It is a rustic, quaint little inn with the amenities of a small hotel, including a live-music tavern, a restaurant and an on-site spa. Lodging ranges from the intimate charm of cozy studios and comfortable suites to elaborate condominiums.

Autumn in Estes Park.
With the busy days of summer over and the leaves beginning to change colors, autumn is a perfect time to visit Estes Park.

A fire destroyed more than half the original structure in 1978, but Marys Lake Lodge has been carefully restored over the last two years. Windows and much of the woodwork are original. Accommodations have claw-foot bathtubs and antique furnishings that date from 1913, when the lodge held its grand opening. The lodge is on the State Register of Historic Properties under its original name, The Estes Park Chalet.

After you have settled in, take a stroll along Elkhorn Avenue, Estes Park’s main street, which has an eclectic collection of more than 300 boutique shops, galleries and eateries. You will find stylish fashions, Native American art, country collectibles, designer blown glass, antique jewelry and much more. Some restaurants serve elegant fare, others offer casual dining. Try Claire’s Restaurant on the Park (225 Park Lane, 970-586-9564) for lunch and choose from fresh fish, steaks, delicious pasta and sandwiches. With linens on the table, this little restaurant feels upscale, but the prices are not.

Take the Riverwalk footpath, which winds through the heart of town all the way to the Riverside Plaza, at the confluence of the Big Thompson and Fall rivers, and watch as the stream tumbles by benches and grassy knolls.



Continued: A Weekend in Estes Park, Colorado
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